Federal Wine & Spirits

29 State Street, Boston, MA 02109

Read about the wines in this tasting

Read our notes

Revelations in Dry German Wine

Sauvignon Blanc from Germany? Last week's most popular wine was just that.
February 26, 2020


The  von Winning Sauvignon Blanc was bold and intense with no oak but lots of Sauvignon Blanc character it compared very well to more expensive French versions. It's the forerunner and best so far of a few that we have tasted. It's low price perhaps contributed to its popularity.


We opened all the other wines an hour in advance, but probably should have decanted some of them


People liked both Keller wines. The Keller wines were slow to open because both are young in terms of their lifespans the Limestone Kabinett was just off dry and appealing fairly early on. The 2018 Von der Fels showed massive at the start but opened up into a fantastic layered, rich, and long-lived wine. It is extraordinary for its price but is for the cellar.


The 2015 Loosen Urziger Wurzgarten Fischerei GG also started slow, but developed a heady slate tinged richness with time open. I encouraged one burgundy loving customer who tried a case for the first time to decant it an hour or two in advance. “White wine?” he said. “Yes,” I replied.

He did and told me afterwards that he and his wife both loved it.


The labels on Peter Lauer's wines are in his mother's hand-written script and difficult for non-German eyes to decipher. Thus we opened his Kupp Spatlese instead of the Kabinett by mistake , one that made tasting attendees very happy indeed. It was as rich, dense and succulent as one could wish. As with the others , we have a few bottles left




2018 Von Winning Sauvignon Blanc II; Aroma: Clean rather fine, pretty, fresh, lifted clean; Mouth: Juicy bright rather forward, strong, intense juicy needs a time open, flinty and very rich; Very Good Plus 21; Mixed Case, 18.9; Case, 17.85


2018 Keller Riesling Limestone Kabinett; Aroma: flinty, light flinty, bright acid; Mouth: just off dry, clean nice minerality, fleshy articulated; Very Good - Excellent 35; Mixed Case, 31.5; Case, 29.75


2018 Keller Riesling von der Fels; Aroma: bright white peach and acid, light flint, coiled intensity; Mouth: thick rather firm mineral, tight acid dense, firm acid, very textured ; Excellent 45; Mixed Case, 40.5; Case, 38.25


2018 Peter Lauer Riesling Kupp Kabinett Fass 8 John Gilman “ just beautiful, delivering a marvelous bouquet of tangerine, pink grapefruit, chalky minerality, citrus zest, apple blossoms and an esthery topnote of bee pollen. On the palate the wine is pure, delicate and medium-full, with lovely filigree and grip, great focus and balance, electric acids and a very, very long, complex and dancing finish. A glorious Kabinett!” $37, $33.30, $31.45


2018 Peter Lauer Ayler Riesling Senior Saar, Gilman essentially a dry wine, but not under the Trocken threshold. It is a fine wine in the making, offering up a complex nose of green peach, orange peel, salty minerality, dried flowers and plenty of upper register smokiness. On the palate the wine is crisp, fullish and beautifully pure on the attack, with vibrant acids, good focus and grip, plenty of mid-palate depth and a long, complex and very classy finish. This is a fine, fine value! $29.99, $26.99, $25.49


2015 Dr. Loosen Urziger Wurzgarten Fischerei GG Riesling; Aroma: Clean very dense rich red slate, deep, ; Mouth: Fine rather rich, Fine mineral, edgy, bright, a very nice tension between mineral and fruit, open and rich with ages to go; Excellent - Outstanding 40; Mixed Case, 36; Case, 34


2/26/20 Dry German Case: Special, two each of the above wines 

2/26/20 Dry German Pack: Special, one each of the above wines


2018 Peter Lauer Kupp Spatlese Gilman a very lovely wine in the making. The bouquet is bright and promising, wafting from the glass in a mix of apple, salty minerality, bee pollen, sea salts and a floral topnote redolent of lilacs. On the palate the wine is medium-full and again, beautifully filigreed, with a lovely core, excellent mineral drive, bright acids and lovely focus and grip on the long and complex finish. A fine Sp├Ątlese that comes in at eight percent octane, carries ninety grams of sugar and has nine grams of acidity. 2019-2060.” 43; Mixed Case, 38.7; Case, 36.55


Or Mix any 12 for 15% off

Any 6 for 10% off


Or Mix any 12 for 15% off

Any 6 for 10% off


In addition:

2017 Alleno Chapoutier St. Joseph Croix de Chabot; Aroma: very ripe, rich and heavy, very pure dark fruit; Mouth: fleshy rather deep, full a touch of leather and graphite, dense very ripe, ; Excellent 48; Mixed Case, 43.2; Case, 40.8


Order by phone at 617.367.8605, or reserve here: order@federalwine.com

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           - Len Rothenberg