John Duval
What you missed...
October 18, 2022
Len writes,
One person called John Duval charismatic. He was no movie star but entranced all with air of quiet authority from with 50 years of experience, all the more impressive because he spoke in a manner completely unassuming and matter of fact. To taste the wines while they were explained by their creator was memorable
The wines were as impressive as the man. They showed themselves the equal to the better wines from North America or Europe. They were unlike the usual image of Australian reds.
One taster described them as having both “fruit and precision.” They appealed to people who looked for wines of fruit as much as to those who wanted sophistication.
Two wines impressed the most. The Eligo Shiraz, reserve bottling of some of the best barrels and plots, had a very pretty interplay between wood and sweet red currant fruit in the nose. It continued with that in the mouth. Enriched by a round and sumptuous fruit, it is appealing now but showed the ability to age and improve.
The Annexus Mataro was a textbook essay in what the mourvedre grape can do. It was more restrained and not so big as many a Bandol, the other major Mourvedre -based wine, but more like one of the rare and pricey Mourvedre cuvees from Chateauneuf du Pape. It showed restraint and a finely modulated dusty tobacco in the nose which was replicated in the mouth with a stroing linear purple cruit. Some of the most sophisticated Europhiles found it fascinating.
it comes from a single plot of 125-year-old vines. Its stablemate the 2017 Annexus Grenache comes from one of the oldest vineyards in Australia planted in 1858. That held a higher toned sweet fruit reminiscent of some from inear and higher toned with light touches of leather. It was the opposite of heavy or leaden.
The Entity Shiraz and Plexus GSM were far from shabby either. Both had substance and weight and were adelicious now but promised wonderful development in the next few years.
The Plexus White emulated a southern white Rhone and was both piquant and full of savory fruit.
Worth noting, we double-decanted the reds three hours before the tasting. They don't need that to drink nicely but as with many a fine wine air and/or time let them really show how well made they are and the quality of their fruit.
White
2019 J Duval Plexus Marsanne Viognier Roussanne: Mouth: Heady rather rich, very full, intense, heady and earthy; Very Good Plus; 32 Mixed Case, 29; Case, 27
Red
2019 John Duval Plexus GSM; Aroma: Heady, light fresh lifted, rather pretty, reserved, lightly herbal spicy rather deep, very dense, touch of anise; Mouth: Bright smooth textured fresh, light and little, fine acids, long, very pure, long, very deep, intense, bright a spicy dense, clean firm,; Very Good - Excellent 42 Mixed Case, 38; Case, 36
2020 John Duval Entity Shiraz; Color: Very dark; Aroma: Very deep and rich, very heady, light herbaceousness, aromatic edge, clean, herbal; Mouth: Sweet very rich intense,. Fullish, bright clean,. Tight clean, tight and firm, long, bright acid; Very Good - Excellent; 42 Mixed Case, 38; Case, 36
2017 John Duval Annexus Grenache; Aroma: Bright lean vetch spicy, clean, lightly herbal, later very pretty, lean and clean; Mouth: Clean lean spicy, rather bright, lean, acid firm, rather tight, long, young, dusty very finely delineated; Excellent; $65; 10% 58.5; Case, 55
2018 John Duval Annexus Mataro; Heady rather dense, reserved berry young, little p[pretty, restrained; Mouth: Rather lean, suggestive more than opulent, subtle, very clean light lithe fresh, ripe and intense; Excellent – Outstanding $65; 10% 58.5; Case, 55
2017 John Duval Eligo Shiraz Aroma: Light clean, very fresh, lovely lightly etched interplay of wood and fruit; Mouth: smooth on entry very pure light currant notes, the wood fruit the interplay continues, lithe with red fruits and soft acids and tannins; Outstanding $100; Mixed Case, 90; Case, 85
Any six - 11 bottles of the above for a 10% discount
Any twelve bottles of the above for the case discount
Order by phone at 617.367.8605, or reserve here: order@federalwine.com
Please pass this on to any friends who are wine enthusiasts!
- Len Rothenberg
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downtown on orders more than $75;
in Greater Boston on orders more than $199
