Wines of Portugal, with Augusto Gabriel
Augusto Gabriel‘s Portuguese wines lived up to their promise. We thank him for visiting last Wednesday with new vintages of some of last year’s favorites, as well as some flavorful new wines. Yes, there were favorites this time, too.
August 14, 2024
Wines of Portugal
Unique Varietals, Food-Friendly Wines,
Uncompromising Winemakers
Last week, Augusto Gabriel‘s Portuguese wines lived up to their promise. We thank him for visiting last Wednesday with new vintages of some of last year’s favorites, as well as some flavorful new wines. Our discriminating tasters loved, them. Favorites of the evening were the 2023 Foral De Melgaço Alvarinho Old Vines, and the 2020 Van Zellers VZ Douro Tinto.
Portugal has been undergoing something of a quiet revolution over the last twenty years. Their rich store of native grape varieties is now paying dividends with a new breed of full-blooded, fruit-filled wines more than able to compete on the world stage. The unique flavors of Portugal's native grape varieties are good news for those looking for a change from wines made from the usual grapes. All these wines are good values, some extraordinary bargains compared to their French, Spanish, or American counterparts.
Branco
2023 Foral De Melgaço Alvarinho Old Vines
Melgaço is just across the border from Spain’s Rias Baixas, renowned for its Albarino. The same grape is named Alvarhino in Portuguese. Melgaco has the advantage of a mountain range to the west that gives it a warmer, drier climate. This makes for a dry and crisp white, with fleshy fruit notes on the nose and palate and a fantastic textural mouthfeel at an amazingly low price.
Aroma: An opulent, concentrated delight, offering intense citrus, apple, pear, and floral aromas accentuated by tropical notes.
Mouth: Full-bodied and voluminous, with a fresh and vibrant acidity and great minerality. Pleasantly creamy and fruity, with apple, pineapple, and a touch of tropical citrus. Very Good Plus $18.99, Case $15.99
2023 Castello D’Alba Douro Branco
In 2000, Rui Roboredo Madeira established Castello D’Alba, his landmark vineyard in the Upper Douro River Valley. Although the Douro is hot and arid, Rui makes his Douro White with grapes from a high-altitude, low-yielding, sustainable, dry-farmed vineyard. This results in a wine of crisp and balanced acidity.
Aroma: Mineral, citrus, apricot, and light floral aromas on the nose.
Mouth: A chalky minerality supported by juicy orange flavors and more stone fruit with a touch of salinity lingering on the finish. A vibrant and balanced fruit white wine to enjoy on hot summer days. Very Good $14.99, Case $12.99
2022 Beyra Branco Reserva
Rui Roboredo Madeira's established Beyra in 2012. Located in the Beira Interior region just to the northeast of the Douro River Valley. Here the granite soil produces wines reminiscent of Pouilly Fume.
Aroma: Honeydew Melon, green apple, blended citrus fruits, and a hint of flinty minerality. Mouth: Honeydew Melon, Kiwi, lemon-grapefruit citrus, crisp texture, balanced acidity, hint of smoke and a refreshing finish. Very Good Plus $17.99, Case $14.99
Tinto
2021 Fonte Do Ouro Dao Tinto
With a family farming tradition of 130 years, 4th generation Nuno Cancela De Abreu has
made his family vineyards in the Dao Region sustainably farmed. His Boas Quintas winery has raised the quality of his Fonte Do Ouro vineyard. The result has been consistent high-quality, indigenous varietal grapes used to make distinctive and compelling red wines vintage after vintage.
Aroma: Dark cherry, black currant, notes of black tea, and soft toasted barrel tones on the nose. Mouth: Fresh red berry fruits are complemented by smooth and elegant tannin ends with a lifted palate on the finish. Very Good $15.99, Case $13.59
2022 Castello D’Alba Douro Reserva Tinto
Rui Roboredo Madeira offers a classic example of a Douro River Valley field blend that is sure to please your palate. Aroma: Very complex, intense aroma with the Touriga Franca conveying wild berries and rock rose. Spices and red fruit from the Tinta Roriz and very fresh and elegant floral notes of violet from the Touriga Nacional.
Mouth: This wood-aged wine is rich, packed with tannins, and has a solid structure. It has a spicy character, giving density and aging potential. It is a full wine, with black fruits still vivid and forward. Very Good Plus $17.99, Case $14.99
2020 Van Zellers VZ Douro Tinto
Cristiano Van Zeller, scion of a 500-year-old Douro winemaking family, leads the way in creating elegant, complex, great dry red table wines. He sources fruit from sites throughout the valley and employs 30 different varietals for the blend. Some might want to nickname this wine the kitchen sink, but winemaker Christian’s expert hands create a masterful Douro field blend. Decant or open an hour ahead for it to show its best.
Dark ruby garnet with purple reflections and a touch of edge brightening in the glass.
Aroma: Delicate herbal savouriness along with dark forest berries and cherries and some floral nuances in the background.
Mouth: The palate is juicy, full-bodied, and elegant, with ripe tannins, a core of black cherries, and a touch of chocolate. This is a powerful food companion with savouriness and length. Time to break out some high-quality ribeye steaks. Very Good-Excellent $29.99, Case $25.49
8-14 Portuguese Case two each of the wines, $198
Or make your own case; any twelve bottles at their discounted case prices
Order by phone at 617.367.8605, or reserve here: Click to Order
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downtown on orders more than $75;
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