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Roses of Different Hues
Everybody found something to like in the variety of roses last week. Two different styles were favorites.
April 26, 2023
Everybody found something to like in the variety of roses last week. Two different styles were favorites, the Umberto Cesari Costa di Rose for its crisp and crunchy food-friendly acid mineral crackle; the Ch Roquefort Corail Rose for its heady floral nose and smooth melon-inflected texture.
The 2022 Landhaus Meyer Rose was more middle-of-the-road but thought to be great value at its low price
The Capreoles Beaujolais Villages Rose was crisp and flat to the palate. It expanded in the mouths with time open.
The language of Yes provoked strong reactions. Pros liked its rich, smooth melon-inflected texture. Antis found a touch of banana they said no to it.
Incidentally, the winery name is a literal translation of the French Langue d'Oc, where several fine roses are made. Unlike the wine, the name works better in French than in English.
The 2021 Vallepicciola Pievasciata Rosato was deeper, darker, and more fruit-filled than the other roses, which appealed to other tasters.
2022 Landhaus Meyer Zweigelt Rose
Austrian winery Landhaus Meyer's new Rose is a steal. It is mainly the deliciously quaffable Zweigelt grape from vineyards near Vienna, plus a bit of Pinot Noir for savor and Cabernet to stiffen. It will lighten your palate all summer without the barest lightening of your wallet.
2022 Landhaus Meyer Rose; Aroma: Citrus & wild berry; Mouth: spicy Zweigelt tang with harmonious and drinkable palate; Very Good Plus 15.99; Case, 13.99
2022 Umberto Cesari Costa di Rose
The 2022 Umberto Cesari Costa di Rose is a pleasingly pale hue and delivers exactly what we look for in a rosato. The wine is 100% Sangiovese, and all farming is sustainable.
2022 Umberto Cesari Costa di Rose: Pale rose hue. Fresh and crisp cherry and floral aromas and flavors with lingering aromatics. Very Good Plus 17.99, case 14.99
2021 Vallepicciola Pievasciata Rosato
Alexander Cellai uses ripe Pinot Noir grapes from the high-elevation Vallepicciola estate in Tuscany to make the dark-hued Rosato. They use perfectly ripe high. The 2021 Vallepicciola Pievasciata Rosato is richly flavored, round and balanced.
2021 Vallepicciola Pievasciata Rosato: Bright pink. Aromas and flavors of black cherry with a touch of flowers and herbs. Light touch of spice in the finish. Nice texture. Very Good Plus 17.99, case 14.99
Capreoles is a newer Beaujolais estate that farms organic- and biodynamically. Their wines have a rich style nicely aligned with the exuberant 2018 Beaujolais vintage. This Regnie Rose is light, fresh and lively, and the Gamay grape is at its deep, joyfully forward best. We loved it. You will too.
2022 Caprioles Beaujolais Villages Cocinelle Rose 19.99, Case 16.99
The 2022 Umberto Cesari Costa di Rose is a pleasingly pale hue and delivers precisely what we look for in a Rosato. The wine is 100% Sangiovese grown in Romagna, and the farming is sustainable.
2022 Umberto Cesari Costa di Rose: Pale rose hue. Fresh and crisp cherry and floral aromas and flavors with lingering aromatics. Very Good Plus $24.99 case 20.99
2022 Ch Roquefort Corail is organic and biodynamic, Grenache-based, it has some breadth, but the 2021 has a bit of spice and intensity absent in older vintages. Tangy and forward, it is an all-around rose at home with chicken and others as it would be by itself. It has become one of our most popular Roses
2022 Ch de Roquefort Cotes de Provence Corail- Organic- Biodynamic; Aroma: bright, clean, pretty, fine acid, garrigue notes lively & very full; Mouth: bright, spicy, clean, bright acid, pure, richly tangy; Very Good Plus 21; Case, 17.99 2022 language of Yes Rose 26.99, case 22.99 limits
Legendary California winemaker Randall Grahm's latest project, the Language of Yes, attempts to capture the essence of old-world wines through the uniqueness of the vineyards and the (mainly) sunny disposition of California.'
His 'Red Fruits' rose blends creamy Grrenche with spicy Cinsault given an extra level of complexity by a soupcon of the rare Provencal Tibouren grape. We have a limited quantity
2022 Language of Yes Les Fruites Rouges Rose; Color: pale orange pink; Aroma: very fresh and forward, pretty, firm, pretty forward, herbal; Mouth: broad bright dark berry, very rich layered and complex; Very Good Plus $26.99; Case, 22.99
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These wines (except futures) and any wine in stock assort as follows:
For 12 or more bottles of the same wine, take 15% off.
For 12 or more bottles of various wines, take 10% off.
Wines marked “net” help assemble cases but don’t discount themselves.
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- Len Rothenberg
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