Chardonnay, to Oak or not to Oak
To wood or not to wood? That is the question that has affected Chardonnay winemaking.
April 5, 2023
Len writes,
To wood or not to wood? That is the question that has affected Chardonnay winemaking. California and international producers used to model theirs on the richer whites of burgundy, the best of which were often in oak casks. But with the rise of natural wines and purer lighter cuisines pure, more natural versions of the grape have become more popular. Which tastes better? This tasting is for you to decide.
We had a range of Chardonnay-based wines from no oak to more oak, with a crescendo of barrel fermented, which is oak and yeast to the extreme. Limited quantities of the Gueguen are left.
No Oak
Lioco Chardonnay is an excellent example of the fresh modern look of unoaked Chardonnay. It caresses the palate with lively citrus-tinged fresh fruit notes and refreshing acidity. It is very modern in style.
2021 Lioco Chardonnay Sonoma, Color: nicely herbal; Aroma: light clean, nicely fine herbal acid; Mouth: clean fresh, very pretty rounded fresh, juicy bright acid clean; $27.99; Case, $23.79
In a different style, Gueguen, an excellent Chablis producer, makes this Bourgogne Blanc, white burgundy, as they and many others make their Chablis, unoaked. It calls out for oysters. Like Chablis, this wine comes from ancient seabed soils that give wines that are as invigorating and briny as a Cotuit oyster. This has that in spades and is great value.
2021 Gueguen Bourgogne Cotes Salines Chardonnay; Aroma: heady and full very rich, saline note; Mouth: clean fine acidity, string salt mineral line, firm, clean, long; Very Good Plus $21; Case, $17.99
Some Oak
Just a touch of oak here, very pretty, full-fruited, and dry.
2021 Routestock Chardonnay Sonoma Coast; Aroma: Fresh, pretty, light elegant, firm, pretty fine, elegant; Mouth: Fleshy middle of the road, rounded, apple, pear, a touch of citrus, intense, long; Very Good Plus $21; Case, $17.99
More Oak
Balanced, lithe, and pure,
2020 Hartford Court Chardonnay, Russian River; Aroma: heady, rich intense full, traditionally oaked; Mouth: clean sweet fruit, oaked smooth, good acid, an accent of voluptuous fruit; Very Good Plus $32; Case, $26.99
Also, Sonoma, Raeburn ups the wood ante with lots of French and Hungarian barrel, a full malolactic fermentation to lower acidity, and generous lees aging, which gives an herbal note. It is a richly styled dry Chardonnay,
2021 Raeburn Chardonnay Sonoma; Aroma: reserved, reserved, clean, lightly oaked; Mouth: sweet fruity, lightly oaky dense, rich, creamy, and granular texture; Very Good Plus $19.99; Case, $16.99
More sophisticated, Stonestrreet adds a note of Alexander mountain minerality to full malolactic fermentation, more new oak, and richly barreled fermentation.
2018 Stonestreet Chardonnay Alexander Valley; Aroma: very oaky, very rich, spicy wood, intense, full; Mouth: light, very oaky sweet fruit, spicy wood, good sweet acid, lingering; Very Good –
Excellent $42; Case, $35.99
April Chardonnay Case: Special, two each of the wines – $278
Or mix any 12 at their case prices
Order by phone at 617.367.8605, or reserve here: order@federalwine.com
These wines (except futures) and any wine in stock assort as follows:
For 12 or more bottles of the same wine, take 15% off.
For 12 or more bottles of various wines, take 10% off.
Wines marked “net” help assemble cases but don’t discount themselves.
Please pass this on to any friends who are wine enthusiasts!
- Len Rothenberg
FREE DELIVERY!
downtown on orders more than $75;
in Greater Boston on orders more than $199
