Affordable Burgundies
Tasters divided into two camps. Some liked the friendly accessibility and round fruit of the two Maisons. Other the powerful austerity of the two Goisots.
May 15, 2024
Tasters divided into two camps. Some liked the friendly accessibility and round fruit of the two Maisons. Other the powerful austerity of the two Goisots. Both pairs were very good, but appealed to different palates.
The Tassee d'Or started out delicious and smooth but faded sword the end of the tasting . Pop and pour through early fall only.
the Girding was the reverse. It only awoke at the end.
White
Wines from the Maconnais in southern Burgundy are softer and riper.
The Cave de Lugny coop's are certainly light. Their Macon Villages is for lighter foods and warmer weather. Drink it this summer for its charming freshness and pretty succulent fresh fruit.
2022 Cave de Lugny Macon Villages La Cote Blanche; Color: light green; Aroma: some light fruitiness, clean light, lifted; Mouth: juicy, fruity, clean, pretty, nice acid rounded complete in a very light vein; Surprisingly Good $14.99; Case, $12.99
The wines from the limestone soils of the towns Vire and Clesse were recognized as more distinctive than most Macon-Villages. Twenty-five years ago, together, they became the first appellation promoted to join Pouilly Fuisse and St. Veran as a recognized commune.
Native Burgundian brothers Richard and Stéphane Martin named their house after the Old French name for Macon. Their expression of Vire-Clesse has the lilt and savor that makes it inviting on the palate and invites a second sip. This wine has heft with bracing food-friendly acidity, surrounded by generous fruit.
2021 Maison Matisco Vire-Clesse; Aroma: deep rather full, more richness than their other offerings; Mouth: deep full plummy, nice balance, full and long; Very Good Plus $25.99; Case, $21.99
Hughes and Stephane Goisot have become renowned for their estate whites from Chablis neighbor Cote d'Auxerre. We'll have two from the very good 2022 vintage: their all-chardonnay Cote d'Auxerre, a solid white with overtones of steely stone and no sense of oak.
2022 Goisot Bourgogne Cote d'Auxerre; Color: very pale yellow-green; Aroma: rounded green apple and pear, intense spice, sweet and heady, aromatic; Mouth: clean, full fat steely mineral, good acidity, dark, long; Very Good Plus $28.99; Case, $24.99
We'll also try Goisot's rendition of Aligoté, Burgundy's fast-emerging other white grape. In the cold old days, aligotes were thin and acidic, made potable by adding sweet Crème de Cassis to make Kir.
Nowadays, versions from southern parts of Burgundy are often generous and pear-like. Not so Goisot's northern version. It is dry and robust with smoke and herbs—oyster time.
2022 Goisot Bourgogne Aligote; Color: very pale green; Mouth: bright, clean light acid on entry, nice acid, forward, lime and stone, very long crisp finish; Very Good Plus $23.99; Case, $19.99
Red
The Tassee d'Or (Golden Cupful) comes from the plateau above the fabled Cote de Nuits, which usually makes thin wines. But it's from the warm 2019 vintage and has matured for four years. It drinks like a subdued, softer Volnay or Beaune. It is the classiest burger wine you will come across. It is at its peak now but should be enjoyed within the year.
2019 Domaines de la Tassee d'Or Bourgogne Hauts Cotes de Nuits; Color: very dark; Aroma: light, fresh, juicy, rounded, full, savory; Mouth: smooth, clean, fine acid full, and fat, in the middle, with Burgundian tension underneath clean mineral, soft on the finish; Very Good Plus $24.99; Case, $21.25
Justin Girardin has lifted his family's old Santenay-based property to new heights. Bourgogne can come from anywhere in Burgundy, but this one comes from the estate's small property on the flatland between Santenay and Maranges. It is a foretaste of how good the vibrant, succulent 2022 vintage is.
2022 Justin Girardin Bourgogne Pinot Noir; Color: very dark, Aroma: very dark, heady, deep, sweet Pinot, forward berry -leather; Mouth: juicy bright, clean fine acid, firm clean bright, direct, long finish; Very Good Plus $29.99; Case, $25.49
Affordable Burgundy Sampler
Two bottles of each$249 A bit over $20 per bottle
Or mix and twelve at their case prices
2020 Justin Girardin Santenay Les Terrasses de Bievaux; Aroma: heady, sweet and intense, starts angular, later nice oak limned complexity; Mouth: clean, mineral pretty fruit, nice mineral framework, judicious oak, the fruit at first a bit shy, later opens nicely; Very Good Plus $29.99; just bottles left
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