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The Wines of This Week's Tasting:
Wines for the Feast
November 1, 2023
White
Pure Burgundian Chardonnay
2020 Paul & Marie Jacqueson Rully Blanc
Jacqueson is one of the top producers of the Cote Chalonnaise. Their village Rully has an airy grace and purity that will go with many dishes. Just a touch of oak here.
Aroma: mineral relatively rich, flinty, lots of mineral, airy and finely delineated, then opens sweet; Mouth: fleshy and bright, very, very pretty, nicely balanced, gregarious, fine apple acidity, very long finish; Very Good - Excellent $53; Case, $45
A Grape so Hot, It's Cool
2021 Vietti Timorosso
Legendary Barolo producer Vietti now produces a terrific white wine made with the cult gape Complex
aromatics with acacia, hawthorn, honey, peaches, and pear. Growing mineral notes show in the finish of a rich and balanced wine with good acidity, savory and textured. Excellent $42, Case $36
A Tender Just off Dry Loire Chenin
2019 Francois Chidaine Montlouis Tuffeaux
Mountlouis is very much like Vouvray, just across the Loire. It has the same tuffeaux, chalk, as vouvray but perhaps just a bit more of the unctuous side of Chenin blanc's pear and honey. Francois Chidaine is a top producer in both communes. This single vineyard wine is tendre, the slightest bit off-dry. Delightful to drink now. \Aroma: light, fresh, very pretty, unctuous note, with a touch of chalk; Mouth: juicy, rounded, off-dry, rich, firm structure, long; Very Good - Excellent $37; Case, $31.50
Red
Deep, Satisfying Pinot
2020 FEL Wines Pinot Noir
We didn't know the producer, but we greatly liked the wine. From 2 top vineyards, it has the distinctive deep, dark, slightly brooding side of Anderson Valley Pinot. Very satisfying, it grows in the glass or decanter.
Anderson Valley; Color: very dark; Aroma: inviting light oak, flowery to start, flinty, very rich and dark, pretty and forward; Mouth: clean, light, bright, good acidity, very pretty and balanced, solid juicy intense, long; Very Good - Excellent $48; Case, $41
Classic Piedmont Red
2015 Cantina del Pino Bararesco Ovello
From one of the oldest classic historical farms in Barbaresco. Cantina del Pino has always been dedicated to showcasing the unique qualities of wines made in Barbaresco. The Ovello vineyard produces a profoundly aromatic wine with classic complex flavors. We find balsamic fruits and spice with a core of red fruit and notable texture. Excellent $60, Case $51 limited
A rich and savory Rhone
2016 Lou Frejau Chateauneuf du Pape
This mature, hearty red harks back the original style of Chateauneuf that made it famous. Savory and hearty, it has no hard edges but fills the nose and mouth with rich, spicy aromas. It does have a sediment stand the bottle up a day before serving and/or decant.
Color: orange-red edge; Aroma: subdued spicy acid, with exotic notes of maturity notes reserved; leshy and soft above, fine-grained tannins below, nicely herbaceous, refined acid round fruit, well balanced with a light refreshing astringence on the finish Excellent $57; Case, $49
Highly recommended also
By Peter,
White
2021 Lunae Colle di Luni Vermentino Black Label: $42, case $36
Red:
2021 Terre Nere Feudo di Mezzo Etna Rosso: 49case $42
2017 Serego Alighieri Monte Piazzo Valpolicella: 48, case $40
2016 Dievole Chianti Classico Gran Selezione Vigna di Sessina: $64, case $44
By Len
If you want to start with a champagne
Camille Saves Carte Blanche Brut Aroma: Fresh, lithe, pretty forward; Mouth: Clean, racy; Fine acid, balanced, forward; Very Good Excellent $53; Case, $45
White
We have many German rieslings that will go nicely. This one is rich and dry
2018 Molitor Ockfener Bockstein Trocken Spatlese; Aroma: Lightly fresh, lots of slate and earth; Mouth: Rather broad herbal, mineral, mellowed, bright, citrusy, long finish; Very Good - Excellent $47; Case, $39.95
2019 Okonomierat Rebholz Pinot Blanc GG Im Sonnenchein; Aroma: Very dense, very flu, very rich; Mouth: Light clean, very lively tart, fine acidity, very long, young; Excellent $118; Case, $99
Red
Two French pinots, one from the Loire, the other a burgundy
2020 Alphonse Mellot Cotes de la Charite Pinot Noir; Color: very dark; Aroma: heady and sweet, very intense, very rich, full, a nice sour herbal note, sour plum; Mouth: clean herbal, then acid, good fruit, graphite, some sour plum, very long, sublime and gratifying; Very Good - Excellent $40; Case, $34
2021 Domaine Jean Fournier Marsannay ‚Clos du Roy‚ Color: very light opaque; Aroma: vibrant, heady, laden, a big step up from the village, very rich, savory Cote de Nuits heady Cote de Nuits richness; Mouth: rich rounded fruit, tight, expressive, light in affect, firm, elegantly articulated; Very Good - Excellent $65; Case, $55.
Mataro (Mourvedre and Grenache contribute to the richness of southern Rhones. Australian John Duval made fine examples of each
2019 John Duval Grenache Annexus; Color: Darker than 2022; Aroma: reserved, earthy, herbal; Mouth: clean, lightly minty, herbal, fine, herbal, well structured, good depth Excellent $65; Case, $55
2016 John Duval Annexus Mataro; Color: very dark; Mouth: clean, lightish, relatively pretty, elegant spicy and soft, ripe; Excellent $65; Case, $555
Mix any twelve or more of the wines above at the case discount
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- Peter Hemenway
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