Federal Wine & Spirits

29 State Street, Boston, MA 02109

Von Winning:

New Releases from one of Germany’s Best Dry Wine Estates
June 25, 2019


Von Winning


Why These: Sheer quality for price at all levels,

Finesse, luxuriant fruit, early drinking, purity, gloss of exotic fruits

The Von Winning estate has been crafting some of the very best dry wines not only in the Pfalz but all of Germany. This is the result of winemaker Stephan Attman’s obsessive commitment to both dedicated cultivation of Deidesheim and Forst’s best sites, and meticulous work in the cellar.

Herr Attman was in Boston last week with his excellent 2018’s. He felt that the hot, dry 2018 growing season and cool fall gave wines that had somewhat exotic flavors.

Several did, but as the merest tint or gloss to wines that were resilient and full in the mouth with modulated acids. They will be approachable early. They showed poised with a certain restrained exuberance now, and will age gracefully for the next few years.

The six wines below struck me as the most interesting and seductive of the 11 wines tasted.

Others are available on request.

The Winnings Riesling is extraordinary value for the money, just a tad off dry, richer and more subtly complex than any I have tasted recently at its price.

The 2018 Estate Riesling Trocken is more delicately nuanced, dry without austerity, intriguing and inviting.

The 2018 Riesling Paradiesgarten 1er Lage Trocken is quite a step up in density, richness, and power parallel to a first growth burgundy.

The 2018 Ungeheuer Riesling GG is grand cru; powerful, deep and brooding and will need a few years of age to fully come into its own

The two Sauvignon Blancs were among of the best at their prices I have tasted outside France. The 2018 Sauvignon Blanc I (their basic) fermented in stainless steel, had good power and thrust without being overbearing. The 2017 Sauvignon Blanc 500, fermented and aged in 500 liter barrels. It has the power and presence to stand its own against classed growth white Bordeaux


2018 Winnings Riesling; Aroma: Sweet juicy citric, heady rather rich, rather full; Mouth: Semi sweet good acidity, textured very rich, with a finish light sweet acidity on the finish; Very Good Plus; Prearrival Price, 14.99 Net, After Arrival, $17

2018 Estate Riesling Trocken; Aroma: Lightly delicate rather rich, pretty rather fine, heady rather balanced; Mouth: Clean rather fine, slightly exotic fruit, spicy fruit pineapple, sweet, fine acid long; Very Good - ExcellentPrearrival Price, 16.75 Net, After Arrival, $20

2018 Riesling Paradiesgarten 1er Lage Trocken  Aroma: Very rich very clean dense, intense exotic fruit; Mouth: Ripe and very intense, rather rich, an very dense thick textured, dense finish with lots of fruit; ExcellentPrearrival Price, 28.95 Net, After Arrival, $34

2018 Ungeheuer Riesling GG; Aroma: Very clean rather dense, reserved, less opulent than above, firm mineral; Mouth: Clean dense lower toned than previous, sweet wood notes, very dense, soft wood notes very long; Excellent - OutstandingPrearrival Price, 53.95 Net, After Arrival, $64

2018 Sauvignon Blanc I Aroma: Clean rather fine, pretty, fresh, lifted clean; Mouth: Juicy bright rather forward, strong, intense juicy & citric, needs a little time; Very Good PlusPrearrival Price, 17.65 Net, After Arrival, $21

2017 Sauvignon Blanc 500; Aroma: Rather oaky, rather fruity, head very heady, mineral,, rather; Mouth: Dense very strong, rather fine acid item powerful acid backbone, very rich intense strong, excellently integrated strong oak, saline & acid; OutstandingPrearrival Price, 76.95 Net, After Arrival, $92


Deadline for orders Wednesday July 3

Wines will arrive late October – some might sell out before arrival


Order by phone at 617.367.8605, or reserve here: order@federalwine.com


           - Len Rothenberg