This Week's Tasting
Why a Sancerre Became a Duck, and other Value Sauvignon Blancs
July 17, 2024
Not a fairy tale, but with a happy ending for you
 |
This Week Wed, July 17, 2024 Value Sauvignon Blancs In-store, 5 - 6:30pm
|
The unlucky M. Bedu
The Sancerre That Turned Into A Duck
2022 Domaine Michel Bedu Cuvee Silex Les Valiens Le Canard
Not a fairy tale, but with a happy ending for you
Michel Bedu, proprietor of his eponymous Sancerre domain, made a boo-boo. He blended into his Sancerre vat some wine from a parcel which, despite being planted to the approved Sauvignon Blanc on the right flinty soil, was just outside the permitted Sancerre. The powers who rule French labeling came down on him like a tonne of briques. They told him that he had to take out of his Sancerre vat an amount equal to the production of the infamous plot, which he could only sell as vin ordinaire at an ordinary price.
Enter the canard, the French word for duck, but in French and English it'rary circles, it is the term for a false belief. Was it a bit of ironic humor that M. Bedu decided to tell us that this was a falsely labeled vin ordinaire, but in reality, much finer?
And it is a lighter, pure expression of Sancerre with bright lemon over a grace note of flint. It's perfect for this hot weather, inexpensive enough as aperitif, but also good partner for shell- and white-fleshed fish.
Aroma: lightly pretty, firm, clean, lightly herbal, deep, fresh; Mouth: clean, a touch of flint, a sweet, rich touch with a low underlying fleshy and soft; Very Good Plus
M. Bedu's Sancerre les Valiens would be $30 here. We offer his Valiens Silex Le Canard for $18.99 the bottle with a special case this week of 15.99 the case of 12
The other fine bargain-priced sauvignons
2022 Villa des Anges Sauvignon Blanc
Surprising definition from Southern France
Jeff Carrel specializes in making very tasty wines at rock-bottom prices. We recently tasted his Villa des Anges Sauvignon Blanc, which blew us away. He found a high vineyard in warmer Languedoc, from which he made a vibrant, full-throttle, cool-climate sauvignon blanc that rivals many higher-priced Loires in power and intensity. Regularly 13.99, we can offer it this week for only 10.99 the bottle by the case of 12.
Aroma: smoky, intense, mineral, intense, pretty rounded, herbal, rounded, heady; Mouth: juicy ripe, intense, juicy, with some lemon, light fresh pretty, intense, clean, lingering intensity, long, very fruity and full; Very Good $13.99; Special Case, $10.99
2023 Southern Right Sauvignon Blanc
A Classic South African
This balanced, civilized Sauvignon Blanc comes from Hamilton-RusselL, South Africa's premier burgundy-styled winery. Its restrained balance has made it a favorite here for over a decade. The current vintage continues that tradition. The riper qualities of the New World balance the edginess of the Old.
Color: Pale green straw; Aroma: Rounded fruity, light melon notes, with citrus and mineral accents; Mouth: Clean rather fine acidity, ripe and fleshy, fine acids on a long finish; Very Good Plus $17.99; Case, $14.99
2023 Paddy Borthwick Sauvignon Blanc
New Zealand with a Difference
Some people find the grassy gooseberry quality of the Marlborough sauvignons that define New Zealand sauvignon a bit too much. The Borthwick vineyard is in Wairarapa on North Island's opposite eastern side, sheltered from the chilly westerly winds that give Marlborough sauvignons their character. Balanced and smooth, it is an easy pleasure to drink.
Aroma: very pretty, lightly cedary, clean direct, fresh, light; Mouth: juicy rather ripe, rich, clean fleshy, firm saline under-girding, long, firm; Very Good Plus $18.99; Case, $15.99
2022 Domaine Pelle Menetou-Salon Morogues
One of the Loire’s Finer Estates
Federlistas know the power and richness of Pelle's single vineyard Sauvignons Menetou-Salon just west of Sancerre. In 2022, The Pelle's made an outstanding estate wine at a more affordable price. We strongly recommend it
Aroma: lightly mineral earthy, fine, clean, deep; Mouth: clean, racier fresh, light firm, bright light lemon notes; Very Good Plus $26.99; Case, $22.99
2023 Matanzas Creek Sauvignon Blanc
A Sonoma Sauvignon with Verve and Richness
Matanzas Creek in Sonoma County has long been a standard bearer. This creamier, full-fruited, and lightly oaked Sauvignon Blanc has excellent intensity that will appeal to fans of New world wines
; Color: light & pretty; Aroma: very intense, sweet, very full, fat, an herbal note, lifted ripe note, touch of lemon; Mouth: clean, light fine acid, light intense bright acid over tropical fruit yet clean and firm; Very Good Plus $19.99; Case, $16.99
Summer Sauvignon Blanc Case two each if the wines $199, $16.58 a bottle
Or mix any 12 at their case prices
Order by phone at 617.367.8605, or reserve here: order@federalwine.com
Please pass this on to any friends who are wine enthusiasts!
- Len Rothenberg
|
|
FREE DELIVERY!
downtown on orders more than $75;
in Greater Boston on orders more than $199
