The Wines of This Week's Tasting:
Spain from the Atlantic to the Mediterranean
September 25, 2024
White
Atlantic
2022 Piedra Fluida Islas Canarias Tenerife Blanco
The exceptional Piedra Fluida is a thrilling example of the Canary Islands wines that have been all the rage recently. They organically farm ancient ungrafted vines on the volcanic soils of vineyards that are among the world's highest. Method and soil combine for vine health and reducing soil erosion and water loss, essential on these dry, challenging volcanic soils.
Aroma: Very complex and savory. The smokiness of volcanic terroir comes through on the nose alongside fennel seed, white pepper, bread dough, and lemon zest notes. Mouth: Crisp and focused with lots of citrus fruits and a strong salinity. Powerful and unique but eminently drinkable at the same time. Very Good Plus $25.99, Case $22.09
Galicia
2023 Coto de Gomariz Ribeiro Blanco
"Coto de Gomariz makes some of the best modern Ribeiro around...a consistent standout producer.". David Williams, Decanter
Inma Pazos and Miguel Montoto have produced stellar wines at their Coto de Gomariz winery since 2009. Years of experience and technical acumen reveal the heart and soul that makes it so unique. It will grab your attention with floral freshness, racy acidity and generous fruit.
Aroma: A vibrant wine accented by citrus and orchard fruit scents complemented by suave floral and gingery spice qualities. Mouth: Fruits notes of white peaches and zesty lime with a refreshing acidity, stony minerality, and a hint of salinity. Very Good Plus $23.99, Case $20.39
Catalunya
2021 Venus la Universal Montsant Dido Blanco
The husband and wife team Sara Pérez and René Barbier are the children of two prominent Priorat winemakers, the proprietors of Mas Martinet and Clos Mogador, respectively. They have become admired vignerons in their own right and have staked their claim in neighboring Monsant, whose wines are similar but not so dear in price as Priorat.
Aroma: Fresh and elegant wine with a Mediterranean character, white orchard fruit, tropical fruit aromas with Mediterranean herbs and toasted spice notes. Mouth: Attractively gentle and mineral, with sound, round fruit, and balancing acidity on the palate, it is harmonious with a nice, long, dry finish. Excellent$35, Case $29.99
Red
Central Spain
2023 Bodegas y Vinedos Artuke Rioja
Artuke is renowned for its fresh approach to Rioja, diverging from the region's traditional blending and aging methods. Brothers Arturo and Kike use the carbonic maceration technique of Beaujolais to take texture and flavors of Tempranillo to new and enjoyable heights.
Aroma: An explosion of floral notes and red berries. Full of brightness and purity thanks to the carbonic maceration. Mouth: Juicy flavors of ripe raspberry and red plum with bright acidity and soft tannins. Very Good $15.99, Case $13.59
2019 Bodegas Aster Crianza Ribera Del Duero
In the 1990s, acclaimed Rioja wine producer La Rioja Alta established a vineyard in Ribera del Duero, where terroir and microclimate meet to invite the utmost expression of the Tempranillo grape. They sought the best possible site following the advice of the Denomination's best growers and different academic experts. The result was world-class Tempranillo.
Aroma: Blackcurrant, blackberry, and blueberry jam wrapped with mocha, confectionery, and spice; black pepper, licorice, and clove in the background. Mouth: Balanced, vibrant, and fresh, with the characteristic fine, gentle Duiero tannins. The aftertaste is fresh and sinewy, nicely rounded, with an enjoyable finish. An elegant wine with outstanding balance and excellent aging potential. Very Good-Plus $28.99, Case $24.99
Catalunya
2021 Venus La Universal Montsant Dido Tinto
Sara and Rene's goal "to interpret femininity through a bottle of wine" seems contrary to the style of the typically big hearty Grenache and Carignan-of Priorat or Monsant, but you will taste a revelation. This is an incredibly elegant, refined, sensual expression with restrained alcohol levels and tremendous texture.
Aroma: Notes of blackberry, dark cherry, black plum, toasted spice and cocoa.
Mouth: Plush and silky texture, medium body, medium acidity, fresh and mineral stone finish. Very Good Plus $32.00, Case $26.99
9-23 Spanish Case, 2 each of the wines $275, (22.91 a bottle)
Mix any twelve or more at their case prices
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- Len Rothenberg
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