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Remi Jeanniard Morey and Chambolle
Great 2019 Burgundies at Great Prices
October 31, 2021
The well-respected Guide Hachette is a French parallel of Consumer Reports for wines. Unlike most wine journals, its judges evaluate their wines tasted blind.
The judges of their just-released 2022 edition were unanimous in praising one of Remi Jeanniard’s red burgundies “for its balance and quite simply the pleasure it offers today. Perfectly mastered.” They awarded it their highest rating ***, i.e., extraordinary wine and a ❤︎, a Coup de Coeur, in English a heartthrob and love at first sight. Only 125 wines out of 6,00o they judged were reviewed so highly.
That was just his basic village Morey St Denis. Jeanniard’s premier crus are more profound, more refined, if more reserved to start. They have the potential to become even more outstanding wines over the next few years.
Unless you have seen him on this page, you likely do not know him. Unassuming, Remi Jeanniard puts his effort into winemaking, not marketing. He does not have a website He drives a modern version of a deux chevaux
He does have 6 ha of vineyards of well-placed, impressively old-vine village and 1er crus in Morey and Chambolle. They are a minimum of 45 years old with some parcels over a century. He farms them sustainably (no chemical fertilizers), reduces yields, and handpicks & sorts his grapes.
In the cellar, he ferments with natural yeasts. His cool maceration is short. He neither fines nor filters first growths. He only lightly filters his village wines to make wines of balance, restraint, and individual typicity.
Their second-best part is their price. Burgundy critic Jasper Morris says he unobtrusively makes good wine at fair prices. We have not found Cote de Nuits wines of their quality and provenance at anywhere near their prices, especially in the 2019 vintage, one that should be in every Burgundy lover’s cellar.
2019 Morey-St.-Denis, Vieilles Vignes
Two-thirds planted in 1951, the rest from 1920 and 1945. “The nose conjures up very harmonious aromas of peony, caramel, and red and black fruits, which add to its particularly flattering character. Richness, volume, elegance, velvety and fine tannins come together in the mouth in a long finish. “Exceptional Hachette $49 Net
2019 Chambolle-Musigny, Vieilles Vignes
Hand-harvested in mid-September from three parcels planted 1920-1975, The grapes undergo pre-fermentation cold soak for better extraction where 20% are whole cluster, followed by three weeks of fermentation in stainless steel using indigenous yeasts. $69 Net
2019 Morey-St.-Denis Premier Cru, ‘Clos des Ormes’
On the Gevrey border, planted in 1951 on deep sandy-clay soils with large, round pebbles, relatively forward, the fine 1er cru edge of limestone, violets, smooth well-integrated tannins, deceptively forward – Excellent - Outstanding $85 Net
2019 Morey-St.-Denis Premier Cru, ‘Les Ruchots
On the Chambolle border just below the grand crus Clos de Tart and Bonnes Mares, Planted in 1969 -, starts brooding reserved, five days opened (!) filled out, a layered heady and full with depth yet to go; shows silky, full-bodied with a long finish and a complex flavor profile five to 10 years – Excellent - Outstanding. $85 Net
Order by phone at 617.367.8605, or reserve here: firstname.lastname@example.org
- Len Rothenberg
downtown on orders more than $75;
in Greater Boston on orders more than $175