Federal Wine & Spirits

29 State Street, Boston, MA 02109

Old Friends and New Arrivals

Best Value, Rich, Poised + Sexy
October 22, 2020

 

A Best Value  Premier cru Chablis

A rich Ribera del Duero

Julienas from Hundred Year Old Vines

Pinot Noir both Poised and Sexy

 


 

We had more orders for a few wines that we could fill, so we went out and got more, but still not a lot.

Act quickly!

 

This is as classic a Chablis as we could find at the price:

 

Pretty, & Classic, Our Best Chablis Value

2017 Domaine de la Motte Chablis Beauroy 1er Cru

 

Guide Hachette “A particularly successful Beauroy. A precise, well sculpted wine that shows great harmony between nose and mouth. The first seduces with its mineral freshness and white flower aromas, the latter by its roundness, density and length, with a well-tempered vanillan wood treatment which melds with the ripe fruit. Two Stars  - a Remarkable Wine”

 

The wine comes out of the glass sprightly and playful, a young ballerina clad in soft lemon and lime. Playful, even a bit flirtatious and with no awkward hard acids, it evokes  summer on Martha’s Vineyard with oysters or clams.

 

Unlike many another more modern Chablis, the Beauroy has not forgotten its roots. Under the pretty citrus there is a soft counterpoint  of flint and chalk, the hallmarks of the Chablis terroir.

 

Better wines with real stories of soil and artisanry to tell, change shape with air, So with the De la Motte Beauroy. Its initial prettiness is deceptive. With time in the glass, a decanter, or your cellar, it deepens and becomes more serious in tone. it broadens and fleshes out with stronger earth tones, a classic Chablis. It’s for fall also and for richer, even sauced dishes.

 

The Guide Hachette calls the Michaut family ‘s Domaine de la Motte “a sure value in Chablis” This, their best Chablis, at $39 is the equal or better of many others that sell for $50 or more.

 

2017 Chablis Beauroy 1er Cru; Color: Domaine de la Motte (Michaut); Aroma: lemon-lime  & flint, with underlying chalk, vibrant, very pretty; Mouth: clean very pure lifted and articulated , with fine lemon acid line, nicely ripe, lithe and forward, Translucent with very ripe cirtus , 2 days later - fleshier and broader muted  citrus,  more chalk - classic Chablis  ; Excellent  $39

 

Special case 395.88, (32.99)

Half case  209.94, 34.99

 

Coming back  early next week:

 

2015 Bodegas La Horra Corimbo

Power and Elegance in Ribera del Duero

 

From Ribera del Duero, Spain's Napa Valley. comes a Tempranillo locally named Tinto Fino  that has of richness and  structure of a Napa cab, but with overtones of leather or tobacco, a wine for red meat or cheese

Rioja’s Bodegas Roda has  had decades of experience with Tempranillo and has become distinguished for wines that are both among the more powerful and delineated of the region. They wanted to expand to Ribera del Duero and partnered with a family  hat farms older bush vines in the La Horra subregion. They established Bodegas La Horra  and in 1999 released the first Corimbo.

It is pure Tinto Fino from organically grown dry farmed 25 year old vines. Careful winemaking and chalk and limestone soils give La Horra’s wines a cut and finesse not found in many other Riberas.  After hand harvesting, the grapes are fermented in a combination of large wood & stainless steel vats followed by 14 months aging in 80% French & 20% American oak.

 

Corimbo retains the signature Roda power and precision in a wine that has the breadth of a more Bordelais-styled Napa Cabernet, but with the nutty overtones that distinguish Tempranillo.

 

We quickly sold out the importer’s stock of the 2014. The 2015 arriving early next week, enthused The Wine Advocate’s Luis Guttierez was even better than the 2014:

 

 “dark, ripe, modern and concentrated Tempranillo that is easy to identify as Ribera del Duero, with notes of black fruit and sweet spices, something balsamic, faintly medicinal and with diesel-like minerality, and a medium to full-bodied palate with ripe flavors that reflect the character of the year. It has round and polished tannins and moderate acidity.”

 

2015 Bodegas La Horra Ribera del Duero Corimbo;

$45  $35 Special case price  $347.88 (28.99)

 

Returning in early December:

 

2018 Perrachon Julienas Vignes des Centenaires Cuvee Special

Exciting New Vintage of a Fine Cru Beaujolais

 

We feared we hadn’t brought in enough and we were right, It was all gone the day after our email went out. 

Six generations of Perrachons  have run this Julienas  estate since 1877, They work sustainably  and are moving a more organic approach in the vineyards. Their more basic “Blue Rock” Julienas was a coup de coeur, a heart throb in the Revue du Vin de France.

The domaine’s  pride is their less than a hectare plot of 100-year-old vines in the Julienas hills. From it  they select grapes for their limited Cuvee Speciale Centenaire. It is very, very good. The 2017 vintage was the hit of our last years’ tasting of a dozen growers’ cru Beaujolais'.

Response was so good that we asked the importer to bring in some of the 2018 for us. When it arrived, we were glad we had.

2018 is a wonderfully ample, ripe and fleshy vintage for Beaujolais.  Julienas is one of the weightier of 10 Beaujolais crus distinguished for its power, earth, and spice. Julienas wines tend to be less tannic and more exuberant, young than those of neighboring Moulin a Vent.

Vintage and vineyard make the 2018 Cuvee des Centenaires Juliaeas times two. Although Gamay, it has the dark fruit, weight and richness of a Willamette Valley Pinot Noir in a ripe vintage. Ancient vines, schist and granite in the soil add a pronounced underlying stony line that gives the wine character and  nicely offsets the fruit.

You can drink this young (It is a great fall wine, Thanksgiving too) but, it will improve for up to 10 years like fine burgundy. Once we tasted we feared we hadn’t asked  for enough, so it is in limited quantity.

 

2018 Perrachon Julienas Vignes des Centenaires Cuvee Special ; Color: Black center ruby edge; Aroma: heady, finely delineated  acid over a richly plummy center, nice interplay between granite and fruit; Mouth: clean acid granite drive, fine edge direct,  ripe black plum  crisp & stony finish, beautifully balanced, long; Very Good – Excellent 

28.99

Special Case 287.88 (23.99)

 

Current Offers All Gone

Sold Out

 

Thomas Perseval Brut Nature Tradition –we stiil have a few of bottles his 2014 La Pucelle Brut Nature , a single vineyard Blanc  de Noirs and his 2014 Le Village Brut Nature, ditto from chardonnay, both at $100, the bottle

 

2016 Isole e Olena Cepparello  - all we  could get was gone in about 3 hours..We are angling to get more-  stay tuned 

 

New Notable Not Much of It

2017 Brick House Dijonnais Clones

Pinot Noir both Sexy and Poised 

 

Pinot Noir can be both defined and sexy. Vinous’ Josh Raynolds and I were both entranced and seduced by the extra dimension that comes from the melding of the two in this Ribbon Ridge Willamette Pinot

 

Reynolds “Bright red. Assertive aromas of fresh red berries, cherry, potpourri and Asian spices, along with an emerging mineral element. Silky and penetrating on the palate, offering appealingly sweet raspberry, cherry and floral pastille flavors that show a suave blend of power and finesse. Shows outstanding clarity and floral lift on the long, supple finish, which features polished tannins and repeating minerality.”  

 

Rothenberg Color: medium dark slightly opaque; Aroma: rather bright  rich plum fruit, well lintegrated with discreet oak lining, delicate feminine; Mouth: pretty rounded prroprtionate, rdirect with a good acid line, subdued raspberry fruit, in perfect proportion; Excellent

 

$53 

Special Case $539.88 (44.99)

 6 bottles 287.94

 

Order by phone at 617.367.8605, or reserve here: order@federalwine.com

 

           - Len Rothenberg

 


 

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