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The Master of World-Class Austrian Red Wine
March 20, 2023
Paul Achs saw the potential for the Blaufrankisch grape at his family’s farm in Burgenland, Austria. Today his production is 90% red wine. The farming is biodynamic, and the vineyard yields are meager. The Blaufrankisch wine was the favorite of Emperor Charlemagne back in the ninth. Paul makes wines that express elegance and rich finesse with pure fruit.
He compares Gols, his hometown, to Burgundy’s Gevrey Chambertin. He has vineyard sites with particular soils and elevations and makes village-level, premier cru-level, and grand Cru-level wines. The 2021 Paul Achs Blaufrankisch Heideboden is the village wine. It is drinkable young and will age well for 10 to 15 years. The 2021 Paul Achs Blaufrankisch Edelgrund is a single vineyard Premier cru. The wine is complex and beautifully structured with a silken texture. The 2020 Paul Achs Pannobile blends 70% Blaufrankisch and 30% Zweigelt and is the first of the Grand cru level wines. Paul studied with Elio Altare in Barolo. I believe these Blaufrankisch wines are a combination in style of Burgundy and Barolo.
The last time I saw Paul was in 2018. Now he has a new importer. It is immensely satisfying to me that these wines are available again. There is something for everyone in these balanced, exciting, and satisfying wines. All of them have a bright violet-red color and are of great value.
2021 Paul Achs Blaufrankisch Heideboden: Dark cherry, roses, spice. Medium body, good texture. Notes of balsa and herb. Long balanced finish. Very Good to Excellent 27/bottle Case of twelve $275 (22.92/bottle)
2021 Paul Achs Blaufrankisch Edelgrund: Dark plum, raspberry, and pomegranate. Herbs, spices, notes of orange zest, and forest floor. Long finish, silken texture. Excellent 37/bottle Special six pack $189 (31.50/bottle)
2020 Paul Achs Pannobile: Brightly aromatic with deep fruit violets and spice. The flavors are rich; the structure is perfectly balanced. The wine shows a layered texture and a complete finish. Outstanding 57/bottle Special six pack $ 291 (48.50/bottle)
Special six pack: 2 bottles of each of the above for a special price of $216 (36/bottle)
Special mixed case: 4 bottles of each of the above for a special price of $408 (34/bottle)
Order by phone at 617.367.8605, or reserve here: firstname.lastname@example.org
- Peter Hemenway
downtown on orders more than $75;
in Greater Boston on orders more than $199