Tonight's Tasting
Exceptional Sparkling Wines
December 28, 2022
Tonight some of our favorite sparkling wines not from the champagne district, and introducing America, a rare dry sparkler from Sauternes.
 | December 28th, 5:00 - 6:30 Sparkling Wines at All Price Levels Wed 12/28
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Tonight some of our favorite sparkling wines not from the champagne district, and introducing America, a rare dry sparkler from Sauternes. They're at a range of prices, from ridiculously cheap to moderate at most, but all give a lot of satisfaction for the money.
Jacky Blot is at the summit of mid-Loire's Chenin Blanc producers because of his style of precise enunciation rather than full fruited volume. We loved all his wines and were particularly impressed with his sparkling Montlouis Triple Zero. It was near the top of Decanter's favorites. They wrote:
"manages to be both soft and vibrant, rich and mineral. An impressive feat. Bruised apple flesh and honeysuckle on the nose, with toasted brioche, walnut, and green apple skin giving great complexity. Long on the finish with lovely acidity and a chalky texture. It's fun and incredibly drinkable, but the complex varietal character of Chenin Blanc shines through.
Old Chenin vines provide the fruit for this méthode ancestrale sparkling, which has had no chaptalization, no liqueur de tirage, and no liqueur de dosage added - hence the Triple Zero name. Spontaneously fermented, the wine is bottled before fermentation has finished, which is where it gains its bubbles. It's then aged on its lees for 24 months, lending depth and texture to this excellent value wine." Excellent $40, six or more $34 limited
Bruno Dangin makes Bourgogne Cremant just one hillside south of the champagne district. You can not tell his wine apart from 'real' champagne itself. Like champagne, it has vibrant fruit and minerality. Its price is the only difference. Very Good – Excellent $35, six or more 29.99
Ch d' Arche, a Sauternes grand cru classe famous for its classic dessert wines, has created an innovative new sparkling wine named L'Arche Perlee Brut Blanc de Blancs. It is made in the champagne method, from half each Semillon which gives it a creamy depth, and Sauvignon Blanc to add a crisp mineral note. It spent a year on the lees and finished with dosage based on the chateau's Sauternes. It is dry but with heady overtones
Bettane and Desseauve described it thus:
"A superb bouquet marked by floral and spicy notes which evokes the wines of Sauternes on the nose. Pleasant hints of pineapple, orange blossom, and tobacco leaves. On the palate, this sparkling wine has a fine mousse and a beautiful aromatic expression from the start to the finish. A festive and refreshing wine. "Very Good Plus only 19.99, 6 or more 16.99
Lucien Albrecht, a fine Alsatian producer, makes a fleshy, seductively round rose from Pinot Noir that has been a mainstay of our sparkling offerings for years. It is very satisfying and great for the price.
Lucien Albrecht Cremant d'Alsace Rose; Color: Very pale pink; Aroma: Rather clean, racy fresh; Mouth: Light, herbal on entry, fresh with the lightest touch of sweetness, fullish., clean and fleshy; Very Good Plus 19.99; Case, 16.99
Gruet Brut Blanc de Blancs Sauvage is the premium level of a classic produce of sparkling wine. Made by a family from champagne, it is more like wine than many other North American versions due to the night coolness of the Southwest highlands in which its grapes are grown. Crisp and flinty with a light mineral dryness.
Gruet Blanc de Blancs Zero Dosage Sauvage; Aroma: light crisp, nicely clean, a touch of flint; Mouth: soft fleshy bright acid, fleshy, a pleasant mineral hardness, deep fruit, full, Very Good Plus 21; Case, 17.99
We have not come across a better Spanish cave for the price than Bodegas Bohigas Cava Reserve. In flavor, balance, and precision, it outdoes all others we have tasted
Bodegas Bohigas Brut Reserva Cava- Organic; Aroma: Bright, rich, clean dusty dry; Mouth: very, very pretty fruit, crisp, clean, round finish; Very Good Plus 15.99; Case, 13.99
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- Len Rothenberg
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