2022 Chandon de Briailles Reds
"at the Summit of Burgundy" - Prearrival
September 25, 2024
The Revue du Vin de France on Chandon de Briailles
“This estate has established itself as one of the major figures of the Côte-d'Or. They produce wines without artifice; singular, profound and graceful. We only tasted the reds in 2022; they are inscribed at the summit of Burgundy.”
The wines of Chandon de Briailles are not showy, but more often than not they are note-perfect, poised and balanced,, especially those around their base near Corton
I loved their 2019s and 2020s. The 2022s are on their way, and will arrive in about a month. If you love the poise of burgundy, these are wines you should seriously consider
In the ripely floral and supple 2022 vintage, the RVF considered their Cortons nigh unto perfect, with the less well known Pernand 1er Crus not far behind, The value is in the the Savignys and for the patient, the Aloxe Corton.
Corton Grand cru Clos du Roi Its complex fragrance combines the elegance of a white rose with a beautiful noble vegetal note. Sculpted in depth and in relief, it is long and graceful with a strong mineral imprint. Exemplary
Burghound There is a subtle touch of wood present on the ripe but brooding nose of ultra-floral, pure and elegant dark berry fruit aromas. The refinement carries over to the tension-filled, stony and detailed larger-scaled flavors that are a combination of power and taut muscularity on the youthfully austere and hugely long finale. This is seriously impressive but like the Bressandes, a wine that’s going to need extended keeping to reach its apogee yet it’s not so compact that it couldn’t be approached after only 7 to 8 years. If you can find it, buy it. Very very limited $375
Corton Grand cru Les Bressandes This completely elegant wine, with its notes of rosewood, has a soft texture, a meaty fruit endowed with a grain of real finesse.
Burghound A subtle but not invisible application of wood sets off equally floral-suffused aromas that blend both red and blue pinot fruit. Once again there is a lovely sense of underlying tension to the bigger-bodied flavors that display evident power on the compact, balanced and impressively persistent finish. Excellent develop potential though note that this is very firmly structured. $275
Corton Grand Cru Maréchaudes Its aroma is marked by a hint of reduction. On the palate, a sensation of roughness comes out.
Burghound An exceptionally floral-suffused nose is both cool and elegant with its array of red berries, spice and soft earth scents. There is a highly attractive sense of underlying tension suffusing the detailed medium-bodied flavors that are notably more sophisticated thanks to the firm but fine-grained tannins, all wrapped in a balanced, lightly austere and built-to-age finale. While this will age effortlessly, it should also be approachable after only 5-ish or so years $225
Pernand-Vergelesses 1er cru Île des Vergelesses Its deep nose is a sign of the richness of very ripe grape. Its pulpy substance echoes this with long, ample fruit and soft, balanced tannins.
Burghound An overtly floral-suffused array speaks of violet, rose petal, lilac, humus and a plethora of red berries. The rich, succulent and concentrated larger-scaled flavors brim with an almost pungent minerality while displaying focused power on the compact, serious, austere and impressively long finale. Patience absolutely necessary $105
Pernand-Vergelesses Les Vergelesses 1er cru Its sanguine fragrance quickly gives way to a note both rose and nobly vegetal. A fine wine, with a suave texture from which a sensation of fruit eau de vie emerges.
Burghound A vague hint of menthol is present on the ripe and fresh aromas of black cherry, plum, newly turned earth and a hint of the sauvage. The sleek, intense and beautifully detailed flavors aren’t quite as mineral-driven but there is even better depth and persistence on the balanced and youthfully austere finale. Excellent development potential here $79
Aloxe-Corton 1er cru Les Valozières Truly a fruit basket. This magnificent aroma contrasts with a tight structure and angular tannins specific to this terroir while its fruit is perfectly ripe.
Burghound Appreciable wood though it’s not intrusive on the ripe aromas of black cherry liqueur, poached plum and game. There is outstanding volume and richness to the dense, serious and powerful larger-bodied flavors that coat the palate with dry extract on the complex, balanced and sneaky long finale. As is always the case with Valozières, this is going to require extended patience $135
Savigny-lès-Beaune 1er cru Les Lavières Dense and bulky it relies on sumptuous, fruit of beautiful thickness. This long-distance runner has a tannic mass that makes it suitable for long ageing.
Burghound There is just enough reduction to push the fruit to the background. There is a lovely sense of underlying tension to the finer but not denser medium weight flavors that are even more mineral-driven, all wrapped in a balanced, refined and sneaky long finale. Lovely. $85
Savigny-lès-Beaune Aux Fournaux Again it’s the imprint of the grape, it offers a beautiful vegetal freshness followed by a note of green fig. A pure and intense wine, with an incredibly silky texture.
Burghound (it is 2/3 1er cru). Ripe and distinctly sauvage-inflected aromas include those of poached plum, earth and a floral top note. There is both good vibrancy and volume to the mineral-driven flavors that display excellent length on the balanced finish. Notwithstanding that this has such a high percentage of premier cru juice, it offers outstanding quality for a villages-level Savigny. $67
all prices are net per bottle
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