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2021 Jean Fournier Single Vineyard Marsannays
Clos du Roy and Longeroies
June 13, 2023
“Marsannay’s top producer might well be Jean Fournier, battling out with Sylvain Pataille and Bruno Clair (though the latter is advantaged by his enviable holdings). Fournier has much more modest parcels, but his real strength is that he takes them to their full potential.” Neal Martin, Vinous
Jean Fournier began domaine bottling in the 1970s. His son Laurent took over in 2001. Today, the estate amounts to 22 hectares, in 61 different parcels, certified organic since 2008. Laurent prefers to work with massal selections, and plants them in much higher density than the Burgundian norm. Reds see some whole-bunch fermentation and are matured in larger wood vats,
After tasting six of Laurent Fournier's 2021s, I think that Neil Martin’s comment is spot on. The wines are very appealing and the appealing thing about them is an impeccable purity of fruit and balance. In the lighter 2021 vintage that is more classic than opulent, all his wines seemed very well balanced in all their elements and just right, not too acid, too fat, too thin, just very pleasurable.
The two best wines, which is to say sensual and articulate were his single vineyard Marsannays, Clos du Roy and Longeroies. My notes agree with those of the critics below although I had the advantage of tasting finished wines that had evolved for a year more than their barrel samples.
That said, they had only arrived from France two weeks ago and might be a little travel shocked. They might be somewhat better than my notes below. Both had an admirable purity of fruit and balance. differing chiefly in their approachability. The Clos du Roy two hours open was already showing the thick and heady Cote de Nuits Pinot perfume, but was somewhat lighter in body. The Longeroies was more solid, heavier in body, but reticent. It has the stuffing that may well make it make it the better wine in two or three years.
2021 Marsannay Clos du Roy
“A discreet touch of wood is present on the ultra-fresh nose of plum, dark cherry and earth that also displays vague hint of just ground coffee. There is a bit more volume to the sleeker and denser flavors that possess more power and a pungent minerality, if not the same finesse, on the sneaky long finale. High Quality to Outstanding” Alan Meadows Burghound
“a splendid bouquet, very pure and perfumed, quite floral in style. The palate is fresh on the entry with crunchy red fruit, a bit chalky, crisp black and red fruit with a vibrant, rather mineral finish. This is quite superb. Outstanding” Neal Martin, Vinous
2021 Marsannay Les Longeroies
“An elegant and distinctly cool nose combines notes of red currant, plum and spice wisps. There is excellent density to the attractively textured medium-bodied flavors that exude evident minerality on the balanced, more complex and lingering finale. This offers excellent development potential and at least some patience is strongly suggested. Outstanding Alan Meadows Burghound
“has a very perfumed and poised bouquet, mineral-driven like the Clos de Roy, the 50% stems are beautifully assimilated. The palate has more body than the Clos du Roy, grippy and quite firm in structure, blackberry and touches of blueberry towards the finish. This will benefit from two or three years in bottle. Outstanding” Neal Martin, Vinous
2021 Domaine Jean Fournier Marsannay ‘Clos du Roy’; Color: very light opaque; Aroma: very rich heady, laden, a big step up from the village, very rich, savory Cote de Nuits heady Core de Nuits richness; Mouth: rich rounded fruit, tight, expressive, light in affect, firm, elegantly articulate; Very Good - Excellent $65; Case, $55.25
2021 Domaine Jean Fournier Marsannay ‘Les Longeroies’; Aroma: heady brighter, very rich , very intense more closed than Clos du Roy, very rich and dense; Mouth: thick, bright less expressive, shows solid underlaid by fine tannins, brooding, more substance than the Clos du Roy; Very Good - Excellent potentially Excellent $65; Case, $55.25
Both wines $65 $49.50 Net Prearrival
Prearrival price good this week only
Arrive early next week.
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- Len Rothenberg
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