Federal Wine & Spirits

29 State Street, Boston, MA 02109

2020 Red Chandon de Brialles Corton + Pernand 1er Cru

"Brilliantly Done" "Impressive Delineation "As Good as Corton Gets"
December 16, 2022

 

Chandon de Briailles has been a family estate with holdings of significant stature in Burgundy since 1834, but they are oft overlooked due to the wines' reticence in their youth. A few years of cellaring gives their Pinots grace and a refined floral, herbal, and mineral complexity. 

Claude and Francois de Nicolay call their approach a "neo-classical Burgundian style." They pursue a symbiosis between traditional viticulture and modern biodynamics in the vineyard and cellar, attaining a full certification in 2008. The vinifications here are very traditional, with a high proportion of whole cluster for the red wines listed below and moderate use of new oak barrels. 

The 2020 vintage has gotten very high praise and is, as usual. Some of the most exacting critics of Burgundies have given these wines high praise. Jasper Morris rate the Pernand Ile de Vergelesses and Corton Clos du Roi among the best expressions of their type

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WA William Kelley, Wine Advocate

NM Neal Martin Vinous

JM Jasper Morris

JR Jancis Robinson

BH Burghound

 

2020 Pernand-Vergelesses ‘Les Vergelesses’ 1er Cru

"Located at the junction of three villages, Claude ascribes the fruit to Savigny, some spice from Pernand, with the weight of Aloxe. Clear bright purple, racy and spicy for sure, a fine depth of fruit on the palate, a weight which covers up the stems, more liquorice in with the dark raspberry fruit, balanced with good acidity. Well done!" JM

"An earthier and not quite as spicy array is comprised by notes of red and dark berries with a similar plethora of pretty floral nuances. The mouthfeel of the medium weight flavors is again super-sleek thanks to the moderately fine-grained tannins supporting the firm, youthfully austere and sneaky long finale. At least some patience advised." BH

$65 Net

 

2020 Pernand-Vergelesses ‘Ile de Vergelesses’1er Cru

"A blend of older vines or pinot fin from slightly younger ones. Vibrant magical purple, then the most gorgeous bouquet with a wonderful level of distinction and elegance from this great vineyard. Dark fruit throughout, very stylish, white pepper and spice, perhaps a touch of blackcurrant in with the raspberry, but this is brilliantly done and entirely balanced. The silkiest of tannins." JM

"Opening in the glass with complex aromas of peonies, rose petals, sweet berry fruit, cinnamon and forest floor,   medium to full-bodied, seamless and elegant, with a deep core of fruit, bright acids, melting tannins and a long, saline finish. It's one of the high points of the range." WA

"Here the equally cool and restrained aromas are the most floral-suffused in the range long with an airy and spicy mix of red currant and dark cherry coulis. The mouthfeel of the intense and beautifully detailed flavors is more refined still while displaying even more evident minerality on the perfumed, stylish and classy finale. This is lovely and should age extremely well as it virtually always does. Recommended." BH

$95 Net

 

2020 Corton-Maréchaudes Grand Cru

From bottle no added sulfur "offers up aromas of rich berry fruit, dark chocolate and spices. Full-bodied, rich and fleshy, with powdery, youthfully chewy tannins and a sapid finish, it will be interesting to follow its evolution in a cold cellar." WA

"Blackberry, briary and crushed rock unfurl with impressive delineation, quite precocious but neatly controlled. The palate is sweet and plush on the entry, its richness counterbalance by the acidity and it retains fine delineation and mineralité towards the finish. Give this 4 to 6 years in bottle." NM

$175 Net

 

2020 Corton-Bressandes Grand Cru

"Sweet and rich – but with life and energy. Glamorous. I have often found this producer's wines too light in the past so maybe I should celebrate this vintage's new idiom? Very long and lots of pleasure given. Lip-smacking." JR

"broad and dramatic, bursting with aromas of raspberries, plums, warm spices, raw cocoa and loamy soil. Full-bodied, layered and concentrated, it's rich and fleshy, with succulent acids and a deep core of fruit framed by youthfully chewy tannins. This will reward some bottle age." WA

$195 Net

 

2020 Corton Clos du Roi Grand Cru

"Planted in the late 1960s. Beautiful purple with class and density. Really the most sensual nose of all, makes me think of alpine raspberries, should they exist. Every bit as intense as the other bouquets but with much more finesse. A few tannins to finish but they are supple and all but smothered by the fruit. This is as good as Corton gets and definitely merits grand cru status." JM

"most perfumed and floral of the trio of Corton's from the Domaine, seductive, quite feminine. The palate is fleshy and rounded, very smooth and quite polished with hints of mocha and dark chocolate towards the finish. This is deceptively approachable - give it five years in bottle to fully come together." NM

Three bottles only, will be allocated along with other balanced orders $289 Net

 

We have only three bottles to one case of these wines.

Preference will be given to balanced orders

 

Order by phone at 617.367.8605, or reserve here: order@federalwine.com

 

           - Len Rothenberg

 


 

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