Federal Wine & Spirits

29 State Street, Boston, MA 02109

2017 Complant Cabernet Sauvignon Beller Vineyard

A Cabernet Master's Elegant New Hand-Crafted Napa Cabernet
March 25, 2021

 

Men with Wine

 

I liked Daniel Baron immediately at first meeting. It wasn't his impressive cv; courses at the University of Bordeaux, stages at Petrus in Pomerol, long stint managing Dominus. He presided over Silver Oak in its glory years. In person he is unaffected, knowledgeable and thoughtful. His discourse  was refreshingly free of the blather and hype that mar the presentation of even very good wines. And the wine he had with him was very, very good. 

On retiring from Silver Oak he began a new project with his son Sam. They named  it Complant, after the archaic French term that denotes the type and character of  plants in a vineyard. They aimed toward small-batch, hand-crafted, minimally handled wines; winemakers' wines.

The 2017 Complant Cabernet Sauvignon is neither Dominus nor Silver Oak. Where those are large production; there are only  214 cases of 2017 Complant 

The Complant Cabernet is subtle where they are bold. Pomerol, rich, rounded , and deep, informed the shape of Dominus;  the 2017 Complant Cabernet is  more in the mold of a classic Margaux;  precise,  refined, extremely well-formed. The structure of mountain fruit is restrained, seamlessly integrated with soft finely delineated tannins, into a clear-cut wine of smooth texture, balanced and bright.

More subtle than showy, it is a joy to drink. Tasting it gave me the same kind of pleasure, the sense of  just-so modulated rightness as I had gotten from a mature Chave Hermitage and Bartolo Mascarello Barolo.

The care and labor necessary to make a wine of this quality mean that it could never be never cheap. Complant was offered into sell in this market at $125 a bottle. But covid intervened and the difficulty in marketing it means that we can offer it at a reduced price. It offers extraordinary sophistication and finesse at our offer price. Whether you prefer fine New World cabernet or Bordeaux, it is not a wine to miss. 

 

2017 Complant Cabernet Sauvignon Beller Vineyard; Color: very dark. opaque Aroma: heady,  bright and firm, very pretty notes of berry, violet, leather, and graphite, ,  elegant, and precise; Mouth: a feminine side of Napa Cabernet, seamless with blackberry & herb the mountain structure is  restrained, with softened finely delineated tannins, and precise, soft texture, a bright quality; Outstanding  $95 

 

Special Case of 12 -  948 , 79 per bottle

package of 6  $492, ($79)

Arrives Thursday

 

Order by phone at 617.367.8605, or reserve here: order@federalwine.com

 

           - Len Rothenberg

 


 

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