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Laurence Ployez of Ployez-Jacquemart
In the branding and selling of champagne there is myth and mystification, and then there is taste and fact. Last week's tasters found Laurence Ployez' presentation refreshingly free of the former and full of the latter. The wines too were full on the palate with impeccable balance.
March 8, 2017
Most tasters found that the Ployez-Jacquemart Cuvée Passion Extra Brut hit their sweet spot for value and price. All 1er and grand cru, it blends a quarter 2008 Chardonnay aged 6 months in barrel without malolactic fermentation, with ripe 2009 wine which has gone through malo. You don't taste oak, but from it comes a structure that balanced the floral freshness of the other components. Five years on the lees. Great stuff at $54.
Ployez Jacquemart grapes are of such good quality that they don't ned to be covered with the make up lots of sugar dosage. Always low at under 5 g per liter, they let the wuqaity of the natural wine shine through. The Extra Brut is great quality for under $40 and the Rose Extra Brut at $54.
The 2005 Blanc de Blancs is even more complex. Again only 1er and grand cru, it was aged 9 years on the lees, giving it a richness that does not lack for vivacity and dimension. It is extraordinary.
But the piece de resistance was their tete de cuvée 1999 Cuvee Liesse de Harbonville. Two thirds Chardonnay, the rest equal parts Pinot Noir and Meunièr, it showed lively acidity to balance out a discernible oak richness, Low 3 grams dosage does not obscure the fruit and structure. It is comparable to Krug and Dom Perignon but with more character and intensity.
Ployez Jacquemart Extra Brut; Aroma: clean rather rounded, rather spicy rounded full; Mouth: clean very full rounded rather rich, lightly spicy rich; Very Good Plus ; 40, Mixed Case, 36, Case, 34
Half bottles 25, Mixed Case, 22.50, Case, 21.25
Magnums 95, Mixed Case, 85, Case, 80
Ployez Jacquemart Rose ; Aroma: light direct pretty, fresh round, full, clean, lifted; Mouth: clean finely delineated, fine acid, light acid clean light fresh pretty; Very Good Plus ; 54 Mixed Case, 48.50; Case, 45.90
Half bottles 31, Mixed Case, 28, Case, 26.5
Magnums 125; Mixed Case, 113, Case, 108
Ployez Jacquemart Extra Brut Cuvee Passion; Aroma: dusty, lightly herbal, ripely fruity, raher clean, , lightly herbal clean, nutty; Mouth: clean rather racy, fine avisity good balance, firm underlying acidity, rather long; Very Good - Excellent ; 54 Mixed Case, 48.50; Case, 45.90
2005 Ployez Jacquemart Blanc de Blancs; Aroma: older yeasty, , mature rather dense heady rich fruit, ; Mouth: clean very fine elegant racy bracing, mellowed acidity, , piquant, rather older still cleaner; Excellent ; 75 Mixed Case, 67.50; Case, 63.75
1999 Ployez Jacquemart Cuvee Liesse de Harbonville ; Aroma: very ripe very dense rather heady, finely, elegant, rather pretty rather dense; Mouth: creamy rather dense bright acid, herbal clean fine acidity, chewy wood, very dense, profound; Excellent - Outstanding 145, Mixed Case 129, Case 123
Order by phone at 617.367.8605, or reserve here: firstname.lastname@example.org
Please pass this on to any friends who are wine enthusiasts!
- Peter Hemenway
(c) Federal Wine and Spirits Inc. 2017