Federal Wine & Spirits

29 State Street, Boston, MA 02109

Read about the wines in this tasting

Read our notes

Champagne: 5 Estates, 2 Growers, 14 Wines

The usual large group came for our fourth yearly October artisanal champagne tasting. Briefly, Bernard Dumont's wines were very attractively priced and were the most purchased wines of the tasting. Tasters did and you can through through Friday mix any bottles from the tasting for 10% off six to eleven and 15% off twelve or more bottles.
October 24, 2018


 In order the most ordered were: 

Dumont Pere & Fils, Brut Rose 38; 6 to 11 bottles, , 34.2; 12 or more, 32.3 

R. Dumont Pere & Fils, Brut 38; 6 to 11 bottles, 34.2; 12 or more, 32.3

Thierry Triolet, "Vieille Vigne" Brut 2012 38; 6 to 11 bottles, 34.2; 12 or more, 32.3

R. Dumont Pere & Fils, Brut Vintage 2006 38; 6 to 11 bottles, 34.2; 12 or more, 32.3

Thierry Triolet, "Grande Reserve" Brut $36; 6 to 11 bottles, 32.4; 12 or more, 30.6

Dumont Pere & Fils, Solera Reserve $45; 6 to 11 bottles, 40.5; 12 or more, 38.25

Perseval-Farge, "Terre de Sables" 1er Cru Brut $52; 6 to 11 bottles, 46.8; 12 or more, 44.2

My favorites: The Dumont Pere & Fils, Brut Rose is one of the better roses certainly the best value I have tasted this season. It is certainly a recommended buy.

In large tastings delineated wines can get lost.

The only Jose Michel, Special Club Brut we could get as a sample was the 2010It was wonderful.We have one case coming of the 2012, an even better vintageSeveral bottles are spoken for already.

Jose Michel, Special Club Brut 2012 $82 82; 6 to 11 bottles, 73.8; 12 or more, 69.7 only bottles left

I was impressed by the precision of the David Bourdaire's wines especially the long lees-aged Brut Prestige

Brut Prestige $48; 6 to 11 bottles, 43.2; 12 or more, 40.8

Bourdaire-Gallois, Blanc de Blanc $55; 6 to 11 bottles, 49.5; 12 or more, 46.75

Bourdaire-Gallois, Brut Rose $47; 6 to 11 bottles, 42.3; 12 or more, 39.95

David BourdaireBourdaire-Gallois - Massif Saint Thierry, north of Reims

 David and his parents farm a mostly Pinot Meunier vineyard around the village of Pouillon. His vineyard was planted In 1923. Now the average age of the vines is 43 years. David farms sustainably, cultivating natural grasses between the vine rows and avoiding chemical fertilizers or pesticides. The vineyard is planted on low yielding root stocks and David vinlfles each parcel separately according to the specific stock "porte-greffe". .

David presented four wines, all nature, ie no dosage, that sugar added to smooth the cracks of a champagne. Despite their dryness they are not at all austere David will pour his all- Pinot Meunier Brut and Brut Rose; his Prestige, a blend with four years on the lees; and his the half barrel fermented Blanc de Blancs.

Bourdaire-Gallois, Brut $38

Bourdaire-Gallois, Brut Prestige $48

Bourdaire-Gallois, Blanc de Blanc $55

Bourdaire-Gallois, Brut Rose $47

Bernard Dumont, R Dumont et Fils, The Aube

The Champagne house of the Dumont family is in the southern Champagne region of the Aube, Three Dumont brothers work together to produce champagne exclusively from their own 22 hectares. The soils are the same chalky clay as in neighboring Chablis. The vineyard Is planted with 90% Pinot Noir and 10% Chardonnay.

Beginning with the Brut all wines are soft and ample. The 2006 Brut spends 5 to 6 years on the lees. The Rose is all Pinot Noir, not a blend of red and white but fermented as rose, a rare and difficult method in Champagne. the Solera is almost unique. It is a blend of over 20 vintages. Each year some chardonnay is put into and some drawn out of a tank that was first filled in 1991. 

R. Dumont Pere & Fils, Brut $33

R. Dumont Pere & Fils, Solera Reserve $45

R. Dumont Pere & Fils, Brut Vintage 2006 $50

R. Dumont Pere & Fils, Brut Rose $38

Perseval Fage Montagne de Reims

Benoist and Isabelle Perseval carry on a three centuries family tradition on a small estate in the ler Cru village of Chamery. The four hectares are planted with 50% Pinot Nolr, 35% Chardonnay and 15% Pinot Meunier. Besides his commitment to sustainability in the vineyard, Benoist has decreased the use of sulfur In his winemaking to less than half of the norm.

We tasted their C. des Pinots a Pinot Noir - Pinot Meunier blend, a Meunier wine from sandier soils , and the wine from their Les Goulats vineyard planted to Champagne's other traditional grapes, Arbanne, Petit Meslier and Fromentot (Pinot Gris). 

Perseval-Farge, "C.de Pinots" 1er Cru Brut $45

Perseval-Farge, "Terre de Sables" 1er Cru Brut $52

Perseval-Farge, "Les Goulats" 1er Cru Brut Nature $83

Thierry Triolet Cotes de Sezanne

Thierry Triolet is located in part of narrow band of hills that are a continuation of the cCotes des Blancs. Traditionally,the Sezanne vineyards have been a source of excellent Chardonnay grapes for the large negociant Champagne houses to the north. Both wines we will taste are all chardonnay. TheGrand Reserve stays 3 years on the lees. the Vielle Vigne is only made in fine vintages from vines older than 40 years.

Thierry Triolet, "Grande Reserve" Brut $36

Thierry Triolet, "Vieille Vigne" Brut 2012 $50

Jose Michel Valle du Marne

Jose Michel has somewhat of a cult following for his Champagnes, The House was one of the founding members of the famous Special Club "Tresors de Champagne" They are a small village just south of Epernay. The 11 hectares of vineyards are spread throughout three villages along the Cotes D'Epernay. Fermentations are carried out in old oak casks or enameled steel vats. The wines undergo a malolactic fermentation and the dosage is minimal. Their Special Club bottling comes from 70 year old Chardonnay and Pinot Meunier, with at least 6 years on the lees.

Jose Michel, Special Club Brut 2012 $82 only bottles left


Any six - 11 bottles of the above for a 10% discount

Any twelve bottles of the above for a 15% discount


Order by phone at 617.367.8605, or reserve here: order@federalwine.com


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           - Len Rothenberg