Federal Wine & Spirits

29 State Street, Boston, MA 02109

Read about the wines in this tasting

Read our notes

Five Growers, 15 Champagnes

A very large turnout last Friday with a group of people who seemed to fall into two groups, the majority sensualists who liked a richer fuller style of wine, and a minority of purists who leaned toward a more refined elegant and delineated style.
October 20, 2017


Deadline for Orders at the special prices below

This Friday


Sensualists gravitated toward the champagnes of Jose MichelThierry Triolet and Dumont. The largest number of people ordered the elegant and powerful Jose Michel Blanc de Blanc 2007 which gave a lot of quality at 37.70 a bottle on sale. Two Triolets, the Grand Reserve and 2011 Vieille Vigne followed closely with his richly styled Rose just after. Again tasters were ordeDumont certainly provided that with a popular and very inexpensive Rose and a popular Demi Sec that was more rich than semisweet.

I confess that my own tastes are more with the purists. I adore the elegance of the Perseval Fage wines. The well priced Cuvee de Pinots was popular, but the single vineyard La Pucelle was to me an ideal combination of richness and delineation, but one that will benefit from some aging

all had the austere minerality that comes from being Nature with no dose of added sugar. They are for the connoisseur.

Jose Michel's Cuvée du Père Houdart, «Vieux Millesimes» is of special note, Although not cheap , it is extraordinary, a blend of vintages as old as 1971, that give an aged richness that rewards time and attention with a soft nutty richness that one now encounters in older and much more expensive vintage offerings


BOURDAIRE-GALLOIS (Massif Saint Thierry) 

The vineyard, only about the size of the Public Gardens, is just west of Reims. His whole production is a scant 2,000 cases per year. The wine journal Bettane & Desseauve notes that these wines have been placing very well in their tastings.

Brut (Non-Dosé) $38, special 6 bottles: $195 (32.5)

Brut Prestige (Non-Dosé) $48, special 6 bottles: $247 (41.17)

Blanc de Blanc (Non-Dosé) $53, special 6 bottles: $273 (45.5)


Bernard and Veronique Dumont now run a centuries-old family domaine in the southern Aube district of champagne. Bettane Desseauve - "this less known producer makes very well made, very reasonably priced wines. We're going to keep an eye on them."

Brut Rose $38, special 6 bottles: $195 (32.5)

Solera Reserve $44, special 6 bottles: $226 (37.7)

Cuvee Douce Demisec $38, special 6 bottles: $195 (32.5)

PERSEVAL-FARGE (Montagne de Reims)

The Guide Hachette is head over heels in love with Benoist Perseval's champagnes. they can't get enough because there is only a tiny amount. His vineyards in Chamery in the heart of the premier Montagne de Rheims, planted 2/3 to red grapes are about the size of Bourdaire's. These wines are very very limited. The single vineyard La Pucelle was a hit last year.

Cuvee de Pinots, Premier Cru Brut $44, special 6 bottles: $226 (37.7)

Terre de Sables, Premier Cru Brut $53, special 6 bottles: $273 (45.5)

La Pucelle, Premier Cru Brut Nature $59, special 6 bottles: $306 (50.92)

JOSE MICHEL ET FILS (Côtes d'Epernay)

A member of the prestigious, by invitation only, Special Club of growers, Jose Michel has a cult following in France..

 Brut NV $35, special 6 bottles: $182 (30.33)

Blanc de Blanc 2007 $44, special 6 bottles: $226 (37.7)

Cuvée du Père Houdart, «Vieux Millesimes» $69, special 6 bottles: $358 (59.58)

(a blend of 1971, 1975, 1976, 1982, 1984 and 2011)

THIERRY TRIOLET (Cote de Sezanne)

The Triolet estate is in the southwestern Cote de Sezanne where chalky soils have made it a long-time source for chardonnay for the grands marques. We'll taste their very well priced non vintage brut and rose. 

Grande Reserve NV $35, special 6 bottles: $182 (30.33)

 Vieille Vigne 2011 $45, special 6 bottles: $234 (39)

 Brut Rosé NV $35, special 6 bottles: $182 (30.33)


Order by phone at 617.367.8605, or reserve here: order@federalwine.com


Please pass this on to any friends who are wine enthusiasts!


            - Len Rothenberg


(c) Federal Wine and Spirits Inc. 2017