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Jean-Marie Guffens' Original and Incomparable Maconnais
March 15, 2021
Jean Nicolas Meo made some excellent wines in 2018.
We have six to 12 bottles only of the wines below arriving late next week. First come, first served.
All Meo notes are by Alan Meadows – he labels some non-grand crus Outstanding,a rating he gave to the Nuits St. Georges Murgers and the Vosne Romanee Chaumes in the offer
Hautes Cotes de Nuits Blanc Clos St Philibert (a monopole of the domaine that contains a small percentage of pinot blanc). There is good freshness to the softly exotic aromas of mostly white orchard fruit that is trimmed in lychee nut nuances. The forward, supple, and easy-going flavors are delicious and sufficiently forward that this should drink well shortly after release. 56
Nuits-St-Georges - A riper and darker fruited nose speaks of black cherry, raspberry, cassis, spice and a touch of earth. The very rich and pliant medium-bodied flavors possess fine mid-palate volume as well as very good length on the firm, youthfully austere, and moderately rustic finale. At least some patience advised. $59
Clos Vougeot - (from a parcel superbly placed high on the slope, across from the Château). An unusually spicy and appealingly fresh array is comprised by liqueur-like red berry fruit aromas, especially cherry, that are laced with notes earth, lavender and a whisper of exotic spice. There is a lovely sense of underlying tension to the rich, well-detailed and relatively sleek medium-bodied flavors that display focused power on the sneaky long and markedly firm finale. $438
Corton Perrieres - A moderately toasty nose combines notes of poached plum with those of earth, violet and a wisp of gaminess. There is both good volume and density to the bigger and richer if less energetic medium weight plus-sized flavors that terminate in a lingering finish where the supporting tannins coat the palate. $413
Echezeaux Les Rouges du Bas - (50+ year old vines). very ripe yet manages to retain good freshness on the restrained nose of red berry liqueur along with a beautiful array of spice, exotic tea and sandalwood elements. The supple, round and seductively textured mid-palate possess fine volume and density that contrasts markedly with the powerful, muscular and robust finish that flashes hints of acidulated bonbons that adds a refreshing hint. Patience is again suggested as this is quite firm. $438
Nuits-St-Georges Aux Murgers - A deft application of wood sets off fresh and surprisingly elegant aromas that include the essence of red cherry, earth and a whiff of newly turned earth. The supple and rounded medium-bodied flavors are not especially dense but I like the vibrancy and texture while the impressively long bitter cherry pit-tinged finish tightens up substantially. Very good quality here as well. $225
Vosne Romanee les Chaumes - the very fresh and pure nose is spicier still with notes of anise, hoisin, sandalwood and floral nuances that add a touch of elegance to the mostly red berry scents. The vibrant and tension-filled medium-bodied flavors are firmer and perhaps less seductive than usual but also longer and more structured than usual. I would add that it’s rare when this wine is at more or less the same level as the Murgers but at this admittedly early stage, it appears that it is. .. for now, I find this to be very impressive. $217
Current and Older Macons from Jean Marie Guffens
L'Enfant Terrible of the Maconnais
Best known for his Verget wines, Jean-Marie Guffens has attracted a devoted following among wine aficionados for his superbly concentrated estate Guffens-Heynen wines they have been hard to find. We have just received this limited offer from the importer.
Neal Martin thinks that Jean-Marie whom he calls a Burgundy bad boy makes excellent wines because he doesn't follow the rules
(You can read Martin's exuberant & affectionate profile here)
2018 Macon Pierreclos Le Chavigne William Kelley Wine Advocate "Sumptuous and enveloping, [it] bursts with aromas of pear, peach, honeyed orchard fruit and dried white flowers. Medium to full-bodied, satiny and textural, it's broad and expansive, with racy acids and a nicely defined finish. … another of Guffens's more demonstrative wines $54 net
2018 Saint Veran - William Kelley Wine Advocate "another of the more expressive wines in the range, offering up inviting aromas of pear, wheat toast, beeswax and tangerine. Medium to full-bodied, bright and incisive, it's vibrant and precise, with a racy spine of acidity and an enveloping core of fruit. This has turned out brilliantly, and at this stage, it's my favorite of Guffens's more modest wines this year. 56 Net
2016 Saint Veran ‘Cuvee Unique’ Neal Martin "from a tiny crop of very ripe, low-acid grapes owing to hail; 30% new oak): Full yellow. Musky, smoky aromas of canned pineapple and more tropical fruits come across as more advanced than those of the estate's other 2016s. Fat, plush, rich and deep, conveying a distinct thickness and a touch of sweetness to its rather exotic yellow fruit flavors. Finishes with a distinctly chewy phenolic quality owing to the high skin-to-juice ratio. Perhaps a bit overconcentrated at 12 hectoliters per hectare but this wine will nonetheless give considerable early pleasure, especially to fans of the style. $77 Net
Trie refers to the several passes through the vineyard at harvest so that each grape in this cuvee is at maximum ripeness. Call it his Chavigne reserve
2014 Macon Pierreclos ‘Tri de Chavigne’ Steven Tanzer –"Ripe peach, lemon and nutty, spicy oak on the nose...Fat, very ripe and dry, with a deep leesy quality contributing to the wine's concentration and tactile character. Thick with extract and lightly saline in the middle palate and on the long, resounding back end.
Revue du Vin de France "evokes graphite, smoky mineral, rock water; a wine born of limestone and chalk. The mouth is enlivening, the palate very elegant and dynamic". $69 Net
2013 Saint Veran ‘Cuvee Unique’ Neal Martin "the yield here was just 15 hectoliters per hectare): Bright yellow. Crystallized lemon peel, smoke and earth on the slightly dull nose. Fat and sweet, offering good texture but only moderate cut and precision. Conveys impressive richness from the low crop level"
RVF "a very refined chardonnay, with powdered honeysuckle. The vintage was disparaged, but this shows a nice balance, the result of very ripe fruit. Its oak is integrated and gives a fine toasty quality which lengthens its persistence. A great gastronomic wine." $77
Deadline for orders Friday
June – July arrival
Order by phone at 617.367.8605, or reserve here: email@example.com
Please pass this on to any friends who are wine enthusiasts!
- Len Rothenberg
downtown on orders more than $75;
in Greater Boston on orders more than $175