Federal Wine & Spirits

29 State Street, Boston, MA 02109

Read about the wines in this tasting

Read our notes

Thomas Calder

Important: First we'd like to say we opened on the advice of several people to open three wines in advance so they would show their best. If either the 2013 Domaine de Collier Saumur Blanc, 2015 Thillardon Chenas Les Boccards or 2016 Vincent Paris Crozes Hermitage interests you, please decant at least an hour ahead.
April 4, 2018

Different people liked all the wines. Most popular among whites was the 2013 Domaine de Collier Saumur Blanc, a chenin blanc that after five years is just beginning to show its richness and depth. It is a super wine that will develop complexity over the next five or more years.

        The Barmes-Buecher Riesling is likewise rounded and fruity and was liked for its dryness. Its good acidity and ground fruit gave it a balance lots of people enjoyed. Fewer comments on the Pouilly Fume, but if had a crispness that some found intriguing.

People liked all the rest. Most praise for Vincent Paris’ 2016 Crozes Hermitage a good wine balanced and quintessential Northern Rhone piquancy at a very reasonable price. Both the 2015 Clos du Moulin a Moines Bourgogne aux Seurrets and  the 2015 Thillardon Chenas Les Boccards had their fans, the former for it's very pretty Burgundian Pinot Noir flavors; the latter as a fine rendition of a Beaujolais cru.

        

The Whites:

Jonathan Pabiot is one of only 3 growers to farm Sauvignon Blanc organically in Pouilly Fume. Year in and year out it is crisp classic  Pouilly Fume. The 2016, a short vintage, is particularly concentrated.

        We are happy to see Barmes-Buecher  back in this market. They are very highly regarded in their native Alsace, and  offered a fine range of wines here about ten years ago. They are back with a fine Riesling from the Herrenweg vineyard. Crisp acidity centered fruit and a dry style makes this a fine wine.

        Antoine Foucault learned the wine trade with his father and uncle at the legendary Clos Rougeard in Saumur on the Loire. He started the 7 ha old vines Domaine du Collier in 1999, making just a bit over a thousand cases of wine a year. The wines are extraordinarily rich and complex. They get better with age as you will taste in this still young 2013.

 

The Reds:

           Clos du Moulin a Moines Is a modern winery based on an ancient monastic vineyard in Auxey Duresses. Their Bourgogne comes from a single vineyard east of Pommard. It gets a year of wood. It is as pretty and light a 2015 Pinot Noir as you can get.

           Chenas has been an overlooked Beaujolais cru. The wines can have the breadth of Moulin a Vent, and certainly do not have the structure of Morgon. Paul-Henri Thillardon grew up in Beaujolais and plows his organic estate with a horse leading the way. His 2015 Thillardon Chenas Les Boccards has vibrant acidity that nicely lifts its full fruit. It was a joy to taste and will be one to drink.

        Vincent Paris is based in Cornas, but makes a very nice St. Joseph from both hillside and flat vineyards. The 2016  is rather reserved to start, but with air opens nicely into a very prettily balanced and satisfying northern Rhone Syrah.

White

2016 Jonathan Pabiot Pouilly Fume - Organic; Aroma: light stone fruit, citrus notes; Mouth: crisp and flinty, very ripe fruit classic Pouilly Fume; Very Good Plus 28.99; Mixed Case, 26.09; Case, 24.64

2016 Barmes Buecher Riesling HerrenwegOrganic Aroma: heady rather ripe diesel, subdued spice; Mouth: clean bracing acidity, bright, some lemony citrus notes dry; Very Good Plus 26.99; Mixed Case, 24.29; Case, 22.94

2013 Domaine de Collier Saumur Blanc - Organic; Aroma: lightly pretty fragrant pretty fruity, juicy lime, chalky; Mouth: juicy bright clean firm, tight acid juicy citric, lean; Very Good - Excellent 37; Mixed Case, 33.3; Case, 31.45

Red

2015 Clos du Moulin a Moines Bourgogne aux SeurretsOrganic; Color: medium light: Aroma: fresh raspberry plum; Mouth: juicy, fresh, rather firm, rather dense, bright fresh clean; Very Good Plus 29.99; Mixed Case, 26.99; Case, 25.49

2015 Thillardon Chenas Les Boccards - Organic; Color: very dark medium opaque; Aroma: heady rather sweet deep very dense plumy note, herbs; Mouth: clean acid on entry, fresh bright thickish texture, slightly granular, medium bodied with good concentration, firm, long; Very Good Plus 29.99; Mixed Case, 26.99; Case, 25.49

2016 Vincent Paris Crozes Hermitage SelectionOrganic; Aroma: reserved, deep plum black pepper, closed, reserved; Mouth: deep rather closed, smooth impeccably balanced, fresh, rather primary, clean bright pretty rather fine, a touch closed in, fine grained tannins; Very Good Plus 23.99; Mixed Case, 21.59; Case, 20.39

 

Tasting Special

Mix any six bottles of the above wines for the mixed case price.

Mix any 12 bottles or more of the above wines for the case price.

 

Please pass this on to any friends who are wine enthusiasts!

 

            - Len Rothenberg