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Cool Cru Beaujolais
One taster's reaction was typical; "I never knew that Beaujolais could be like these."
May 30, 2012
These were wines that were smooth, medium bodied, richly dense and with a complexity that stony soil can give. What we tasted last week had the articulation of good burgundy, but in a plummier, lower -toned range of fruit, and at a much lower price. They were very popular. several sold out. (For another fine Cru Beaujolais, look at Prearrival, below.)
Although we opened most an hour before the tasting, several were showing their best at the end.
the two most popular were the two most complex, coincidentally from the same vineyard. The 2009 Burgaud Morgon Cote de Py showed a lot of complexity of both texture, and flavor with a resonant depth in the latter. We have just bottles left. The 2009 Potel-Aviron Morgon Côte du Py Vieilles Vignes was lower-toned with some wood notes. it sold out.
The 2009 Brun Terres Dorees Moulin a Vent had more weight and density sold out also. The 2009 Dom Vissoux Brouilly Pierreux had the same richness but was more open and given. Quite a number of people liked it. We do have some left. We also have the distinctly lighter and fresher 2010 Dom Cheysson Chiroubles.
To show the contrast with cru Beaujolais, we began the tasting with a good Beaujolais, 2010 Trenel Beaujolais Cuvee Rochebonne but by mistake also opened the 2010 Domaine Chassagne Beaujolais Villages, so we polled people to ask which they preferred. At the start people divided evenly between the fleshier Trrenel and the racier Chassagne, but as the wines were open long the Chassagne filled out to a more complex, spicier wine that showed why Villages is often better than plain Beaujolais., Either would be pleasurable lightly cooled this summer.
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