Federal Wine & Spirits

29 State Street, Boston, MA 02109

Read about the wines in this tasting

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This Week's Tasting

Thomas Calder
April 4, 2018

We like Thomas Calder. He is an importer of French wines in the tradition of Kermit Lynch, Robert Kacher, and Eric Solomon.

He is a quieter man. We like that.

His selection of growers is informd by a discerning palate, one that values precision and finesse, and expression of terroir. This adds to what we like about him. Over the last few years when we considered candidates for the store from Burgundy, Loire, or Rhones, his wines having been increasingly winning out.

When we found out that he was coming to Boston, we had to invite him to meet you. This week a sextet of moderately priced Calder wines that we have come to love.

 

The Whites:

Alain and Jean Pabiot farm the small Fines Caillottes estate in Pouilly Fume, making a highly regarded Sauvignoin Blanc. Year in and year out it is crisp classic Pouilly Fume. The 2016, a short vintage, is particularly concentrated.

         We are happy to see Barmes-Buecher back in this market. They are very highly regarded in their native Alsace, and offered a fine range of wines here aboutten years ago. They are back with a fine Riesling from the Herrenweg vineyard. Crisp acidity centered fruit and a dry style makesthis a fine wine.

         Antoine Foucault learned the wine trade with his father and uncle at the legendary Clos Rougeard in Saumuron the Loire. He started the 7 ha old vines Domaine du Collierin 1999, making just a bit over a thousand cases of wine a year. The wines are extraordinarily rich and complex. They get better withairing and/or ageas you will taste in this still young 2013.

 

The Reds

            Clos du Moulin a MoinesIs a modern winery based on an ancient monastic vineyard in Auxey Duresses. Their Bourgognecomes from a single vineyard east of Pommard. It gets a year in wood. It is as pretty and light a 2015 Pinot Noir as you can get.

            Chenas has been an overlooked Beaujolais cru. The wines can have the breadth of Moulin a Vent, and certainly do not have the structure of Morgon. Paul-Henri Thillardon grew up in Beaujolais and plows his organic estate with a horse leading the way. His 2015 Thillardon Chenas Les Boccardshas vibrant acidity that nicely lifts its full fruit. It was a joy to taste and will be one to drink. 

         Vincent Paris is based in Cornas, but makes a very niceSt. Josephfrom both hillside and flat vineyards. The 2016 is rather reserved to start, but with air opens nicely into a very prettily balanced and satisfying northern Rhone Syrah.

 

White

p>2016 Jonathan Pabiot Pouilly Fume - Organic; Aroma: light stone fruit, citrus notes; Mouth: crisp and flinty, very ripe fruit classic Pouilly Fume; Very Good Plus 28.99; Mixed Case, 26.09; Case, 24.64

2016 Barmes Buecher Riesling Herrenweg; Aroma: heady rather sweet diesel subdued spice; Mouth: clean bracing acidity, bright, some lemony citrus notes dry; Very Good Plus26.99; Mixed Case, 24.29; Case, 22.94

2013 Domaine de Collier Saumur BlancOrganic; Aroma: lightly pretty fragrant pretty fruity, juicy lime, chalky; Mouth: juicy bright clean firm, tight acid juicy citric, lean; Very Good - Excellent37; Mixed Case, 33.3; Case, 31.45

 

Red

2015 Clos du Moulin a Moines Bourgogne aux SeurretsOrganic; Color: medium light ; Aroma: fresh raspberry plum; Mouth: juicy, fresh,  rather firm, rather dense, bright fresh clean; Very Good Plus29.99; Mixed Case, 26.99; Case, 25.49

2015 Thillardon Chenas Les BoccardsOrganic; Color: very dark medium opaque; Aroma: heady rather sweet deep very dense plumy note, herbs; Mouth: clean acid on entry, fresh bright thickish texture, slightly granular, medium bodied with good concentration, firm, long; Very Good Plus29.99; Mixed Case, 26.99; Case, 25.49

2016 Vincent Paris Crozes Hermitage SelectionOrganic; Aroma: reserved, deep plum black pepper, closed, reserved; Mouth: deep rather closed, smooth impeccably balanced, fresh,, rather primary, clean;bright pretty rather fine, a touch closed in, fine grained tannins; Very Good Plus23.99; Mixed Case, 21.59; Case, 20.39

 

Tasting Special

Mix any six bottles of the above wines for the mixed case price.

Mix any 12 bottles or more of the above wines for the case price.

 

Order by phone at 617.367.8605, or reserve here: order@federalwine.com

 

Please pass this on to any friends who are wine enthusiasts!

 

           - Len Rothenberg