Federal Wine & Spirits

29 State Street, Boston, MA 02109

2017 Drouhin Burgundies

Exceptional Wines in a Very Good Vintage
May 31, 2019

 

2017 is a very good vintage, perhaps a bit better for whites than reds. They are ones that will show up very well y’all and give much pleasure while you are waiting for the 14th, 15th, and 60s.

 The vintage reputation has been sullied by those growers who do not restrict their and made wines that were less then optimally concentrated. The Joseph Drouhin ones that I tasted a couple of weeks ago we’re certainly much beter an opinion shared by Neal Martin whose notes are quoted below. 

. He particularly recommends the Pulignyand Chassagnevillages, Chassagne Montrachet Embazees, both red and wjhite Clos des Mouches

            I tasted  a few of the finished wines in mid May and found them very impressive. I felt the  village Meursault showed more finely expressive than the village Puligny. Both the red and white Beaune Clos des Mouches white and red are excellent  as is the reserved Chambolle village and Chassagne Morgeot Marquis de Laguiche

All prices are net per bottle, Wine will arrive in September. Some are very limited and offered subject to presale. We are at the end of the offering period, so a quick response is requested.

 

Drouhin 2017 

 

Village White

 

Chassagne Montrachet

is initially closed on the nose but develops nicely in the glass, displaying impressive mineralité and terroir expression for a Village Cru. The cohesive palate is well balanced, with a fine line of acidity and a brisk, saline, marine-influenced finish that is top- drawer. Try to grab a couple of cases of this.  $69 Net

Meursault

attractive scents of brioche, dried honey and orange blossom that seem to gain intensity with aeration. The palate is well balanced, displaying a fine bead of acidity and light orange pith, apricot and quince notes. The satisfying, fresh finish leaves a touch of ginger on the aftertaste. Very fine. $65 Net 

Puligny Montrachet 

a little fuller on the nose than the Meursault Village, featuring attractive aromas of hazelnut and orange pith – actually quite Meursault-like in style. The palate is well balanced with impressive concentration, especially for a Village Cru, and crammed full of green apples and pears. A light saline note emerges toward the satisfying finish. Excellent.  $69 Net

 

Premier Cru

 

Puligny- Montrachet Folatières 1er Cru h

Pale, green-tinged yellow. Captivating scents of white peach, citrus fruits, spices and noble Puligny herbs, lifted by a suggestion of anise. A pure, nicely balanced midweight with a very primary estery banana note and a saline nuance. Currently showing more intensity than dimension, this promising premier cru finishes slightly edgy but long.  $115 Net

Puligny- Montrachet Clos de la Garenne 1er Cru

a delightful array of scents: orange blossom, hints of apricot and crushed stone, turning quite floral with continued aeration. The palate is very well balanced, displaying walnut and smoke on the entry, and quite flinty in style, maybe just lacking the complexity of the Meursault Charmes toward the finish. $115 Net

Chassagne- Montrachet Embazées 1ereCru 

an appealing bouquet that needs a little coaxing from the glass, but eventually it offers hazelnut and hints of almond, and a touch of lemon peel emerges with time. The palate is well balanced, with a fine bead of acidity, a little fatness in the mouth and a saline finish that might deceive you into thinking more Puligny. Very fine. $115 Net 

Beaune Clos des Mouches Blanc 1erCru 

quite a strict, conservative bouquet of vibrant citrus fruit infused with touches of linden and orange pith. The palate is quite assertive on the entry, conveying good weight. Like many white 2017s, it is lightly spiced, though this cuvée shows more marine influences and a tang of marmalade toward the persistent, intense finish.  Very fine.  $178 Net

Chassagne- Montrachet Morgeot 1er Cru(Marquis de Laguiche)

a wonderful, vivacious bouquet of citrus fruit infused with yellow flowers and grilled walnut, actually quite Meursault-like in style. The palate is well balanced with a fine bead of acidity, touches of walnut and lemon peel, well- integrated oak and real precision and mineralité toward the finish. pExcellent. $131 Net

 

Grand Cru

 

Chablis Les Clos 

The 2017 Chablis Les Clos Grand Cru was reduced in terms of production because of the frost. It has a taut, flinty bouquet that gradually unfurls in the glass. The palate is crisp on the entry with touches of tangy marmalade and quince, good body and depth, but it need more tension and mineralité on the finish.  $88 Net

Corton- Charlemagne 

a rather mild, perhaps conservative bouquet that does not quite deliver the complexity I might have expected from a Grand Cru. The palate is better, featuring a taut, quite stony opening, a little salinity in the mouth and touches of black currant leaf and walnut toward the finish. Maybe it will offer more once bottled.  $230 Net

Montrachet(Marquis de Laguiche)

a very crisp bouquet of crushed wet limestone, Granny Smith apples, shaved almond and light orange pith notes. The lightly spiced palate is well balanced with a fine bead of acidity and some lime and clementine notes. It is very persistent in the mouth, showing impressive depth and tension toward the citric finish. $835 Net

 

Village Red 

 

Gevrey Chambertin, 

offers good concentration on the nose, delivering plenty of red plum, raspberry and a touch of damson that bursts through with aeration. The palate is medium-bodied with fine-grained tannin, very fine acidity, silky-smooth texture and gentle grip on the rounded, wild-strawberry-infused finish. Delightful.  $63 Net

Chambolle Musigny, 

a glorious, vibrant bouquet of dark cherries, blue fruit and light violet aromas that could only come from this appellation. The palate is very well balanced, conveying good weight and vigor and revealing hints of white pepper and clove toward the finish. One of the best Village Crus from Drouhin this year. Recommended. $86 Net 

Vosne Romanée

a crisp, pure bouquet of brambly red fruit, light rose petal aromas and touches of black currant leaf emerging with time. There is more backbone to this Vosne-Romanée than I expected. Well balanced, but just a little clipped toward the finish. $91 Net

Nuits Saint Georges,(tasted from cask)

a tightly wound, earthy bouquet that needs to knit together a little more during the remainder of its élevage. The palate has a pleasant sharpness on the entry. There is admirable tension here, especially for a Village Cru, though the cohesive, lightly spiced finish deserves a better set of aromatics (at least at the moment). sOne to watch once in bottle. $68 Net

 

Premier Cru

 

Nuits Saint- Georges Les Procès 1er Cru 

a little gawky on the nose when I tasted the cask sample. The palate is medium-bodied with a pleasant sharpness on the entry, delivering firm grip and a saline finish that lingers in the mouth. Give this a couple of years in bottle. 

Beaune Clos des Mouches Rouge 1er Cru 

Sensual, ripe red cherry, cranberry and subtle bergamot tea aromas gently unfold in the glass. The palate is well balanced with supple tannin, good substance, veins of white pepper and even a very slight flintiness toward a finish that lingers in the mouth. This shows very good potential, although it will benefit from three or four years in bottle. $136 Net

Chambolle- Musigny Les Amoureuses 1erCru 

What I love about this Amoureuses is that it could not come from anywhere except this prestigious vineyard. The refined floral bouquet is sensual and nicely defined. The harmonious, feminine palate is beautifully balanced, displaying filigreed tannin and a precise, transparent finish that is intellectual as well as seductive. This is a beautifully crafted wine and vies with the Clos-de-Bèze as one of Drouhin’s finest 2017s. $625 Net

 

Grand Cru

 

Corton

deep in colour, and the bouquet is comparatively closed vis-à-vis Drouhin’s other Grand Cru, seeming quite broody, with blackberry and subtle iodine aromas. The palate is medium-bodied with grippy tannin, one of the most muscular from Drouhin this year, and the saline finish is lightly spiced. Give it three or four years in bottle... at least. $230 Net

Clos De Vougeot, 

has quite a sumptuous bouquet of copious red cherries, kirsch and subtle blueberry aromas, becoming more and more floral in the glass. The lightly spiced palate is medium-bodied on the entry, offering gentle grip, although I feel it does not quite deliver the precision on the finish compared directly with the superlative Clos-de-Bèze. $365

Grands- Echézeaux

Deep garnet in color, it has a well-defined bouquet of brambly black fruit, briar, lightly crushed stone and a touch of iris petals. The palate is medium-bodied with fine-grained tannin, the acidity well-judged and imparting a natural balance. This is quite a suave Grands Echézeaux, a little spicy toward the second half, with gentle but insistent grip. Very good potential but it needs five or six years in bottle. $599 Net

Chambertin Clos De Bèze

a lovely bouquet of dark berry fruit laced with bergamot and undergrowth aromas, beautifully defined, with real Pinoté shining through. The palate is medium-bodied with sappy red berry fruit. There is wonderful balance here, and a subtle spiciness comes through on the finish. This is one of Drouhin’s best 2017 reds. $669 Net

 

Order by phone at 617.367.8605, or reserve here: order@federalwine.com

 

           - Len Rothenberg