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2013 Cigliuti Barbaresco Serraboella
Master of the Quality Revolution
January 17, 2017
I could eat at Ristorante Il Centro in Priocca every night. Enrico and Elide Cordero have worked together over the years to establish one of the very best restaurants in Piedmont (with one of the very best wine cellars). The first time I went there, I had spent most of the day running around Barolo and Barbaresco with their son Giampiero. Enrico took me to see the cellar. At some point he asked me to name my favorite Barbaresco. I told him that there were quite a few I could name as favorites but he insisted that I pick one. So I said Cigliuti Serraboella. He stepped over and gave me a huge hug. I guess he agreed.
The 2013 Cigliuti Barbaresco Serraboella has just arrived. It is easy to forget that a revolution in quality occurred in Piedmont starting shortly after World War 2. Renato and Dina Cigliuti were perhaps the very first to green harvest to insure a smaller number of grapes to guarantee a much higher quality. The land, including the Serraboella vineyard, has always been Renato's passion. He considers it to be part of the family. Today daughters Claudia and Silvia are following in the tradition.
The Serraboella wine is unique and one can actually smell the breeze that wafts through the vineyard. Hazelnut, cherry blossoms and flower aromas drift through the primary scents of black cherry fruit, earth and spice. The balance is exceptional. The 2013 Cigliuti Barbaresco Serraboella is the current release of a long line of great wines. Vintages in Piedmont have been terrific lately. In 2013, the crop was reasonably small and as a group, the wines tend to showcase the fruit character, yet with a strong balanced structure lurking in the background. As usual this is a wine that will have a considerably long life. I no longer have a problem drinking these wines when they are young, although if you can hold this it will evolve for 30 or more years and there are rewards.
2013 Cigliuti Barbaresco Serraboella: Excellent to Superb 80/bottle
Special 6 pack: Six bottles of the above for a special price of $432
Special case: Twelve bottles of the above for a special price of $816
Order by phone at 617.367.8605, or reserve here: firstname.lastname@example.org
Please pass this on to any friends who are wine enthusiasts.
- Peter Hemenway