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2012 Domaine Mouton Givry Clos Charlé 1er Cru
Love at First Taste
September 9, 2016
I liked the red burgundy the importer's rep had poured in my glass.
I liked it a lot.
Heady on the nose, a soft velvet cloud on the tongue, it had the inimitable violets and cherry melting into mushroom and earth that only comes from maturing Pinot Noir grown in Burgundy, no where else.
I was a happy taster.
There was just one problem, its price. I'm a stickler about burgundy. No matter how sensual and satisfying a Givry, even a premier cru, can be, its terroir is not so distinctive, the wine not so fine as a good red from the Cote d'Or. I could not see recommending it to you for $50, the price I would have had to charge. Regretfully I told him I could not buy it for the store.
My rep is an enterprising fellow. A few days ago he passed on an offer from the importer that made The 2012 Givry Clos Charlé squarely in that vanishing species, fine & affordable red Burgundy.
Laurent Mouton is the fourth generation of the family to farm vineyards in Givry. He describes Clos Charlé as his most feminine, least tannic wine of the four single vineyards he bottles,
The press is just beginning to discover Domaine Mouton. Alan Meadows has so far only reviewed the less ripe 2013 vintage. But Bettane & Desseauve exulted in their 2015 Guide that they had 'discovered' Mouton with the 2012 vintage and praised Laurent for
'his traditional viticulture, meticulous efforts, rigor and hygiene. The result is at the top and the wines add luster to the appellation."
This Clos Charlé was their favorite Mouton 2012 single vineyard bottling; They called it a coup de coeur, a heart throb or love at first sight, meaning they had the same instant this-wine-is-really-something-special reaction as I did. They wrote:
"Beautiful material, very fine, superb tannins, elegant and airy, it's a very pretty wine."
Actually Guide Hachette has been praising one or another Mouton Givry for a few years. Their notes on the 2012 Clos Charlé:
"Cherry on the nose, fresh in the mouth, fruity, floral, and built around supple round tannins"
The 2012 Mouton Clos Charlé is airy, but with the weightless of headiness of maturing burgundy. It still has a vestigial youthful brash note underneath its of fruit bouquet comforter. Decant for an hour or more to show it at its best, but it is only going to get better over the next year or five.
The first case is for my cellar. There are 12 others. You should get one.
2012 Laurent Mouton Givry Clos Charlé 1er Cru; Aroma: rather pretty, light clean fresh with notes of violets and black cherry, bright lightly mineral, softened forest floor ; Mouth: light clean still firm, rather mineral, soft spice, very pleasant and expansive on the palate, very burgundy; Very Good - Excellent Now $35
Case $345 (28.75 per bottle)
Six bottles $179.94 (29.99 per bottle)
some in stock, the rest arriving next week
Order by phone at 617.367.8605, or reserve here: Order@federalwine.com
Please pass this on to any friends who are wine enthusiasts!
- Len Rothenberg
(c) Federal Wine and Spirits Inc. 2016