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This WeekÕs Tasting
When I schedule these Alpine white tastings, it is usually with a couple of purposes in mind. First, the subtitle for this tasting is ÒWhite wines for people who think they only like redÓ. Second, this lets us introduce you to a versatile range of some of the best wines in the world, some of which are totally new to you. All of these wines are complex, express minerality, and have real style.Wednesday, July 1 2009 Alpine Whites And not only that, we are going to begin the tasting with a bonus wine. The 2007 Tenuta Manincor Moscato Giallo is an aperitif wine, lightly sparkling and dry. It has wonderful aromatics and depth. Pacher Hof is located just above the Abbazia di Novacella near Bolzano in Trentino Alto Adige where the Italian Alps dominate the horizon. Its origins lie somewhere in the 11th century and it has been owned by the Huber family since 1849.Ê In 1880 Joseph Huber brought the first white grape varieties, Sylvaner and Muller Thurgau, to the Bressanone area. Today, Andreas Huber farms the six hectares of estate vineyards with his father Josef. These sandy, gravel-rich calcareous plots, all facing south to southwest, yield lively, aromatic wines, rich in elegance and backbone.The Italian wine guide Gambero Rosso 2009 says that Òall of the wines here have character in spadesÓ. The 2007 Pacher Hof Kerner is a shing example of a hybrid grape that was first developed in 1929. It is grown in Germany and Austria and was first introduced to Trentino in the 1970Õs. It is similar in style to Riesling yet a bit richer on the palate. The 2007 Pacher Hof Sylvaner is made from a grape that can produce wines in quality anywhere from the dilute and boring to the expressive and elegant. I think you can guess which this is. This is produced from 100 year old Sylvaner vines.Ê The Bastianich family has made quite a name for themselves in America with fine restaurants in New York and LydiaÕs excellent cooking show. They have also rediscovered their roots in Friuli where Joe owns and runs an impressive winery. Of all of the wines made by Bastianich, the one that floored me was the 2007 Bastianich Malvasia Istriana. This is a bone dry, very aromatic Malvasia Bianco that turns a plain chicken breast into a feast. The last of the Italians is the 2007 Tiefenbrunner Muller Thurgau Feldermarschall. ÒFew producers are capable of presenting a range of wines at this level of quality with such consistencyÓ is what Gambero Rosso says. Today the estate is run by Christof Tiefenbrunner. This Muller Thurgeau is elegant, complex and restrained. Next, we turn to Austria for a refined single vineyard Gruner Veltliner from Kurt Angerer. Angerer is a Gruner specialist in the region of Kamptau, north of Wachau and Kempstal with which it forms AustriaÕs finest winemaking region. The 2006 Angerer Gruner Veltliner Eichenstaude is grown on red soil along the mountains that border the Kamp river. The wine has an amazing texture. Last, staying in Austria, weÕll go to a dry Riesling just entering its first phase of maturity. The 2001 Domaine WachauÊ Riesling Smaragd Singeriedel is a beautiful expression of dry Wachau Riesling. 2007 Pacher Hof Kerner:Ê Straw with gold tint. Green apple and citrus aromas with rich floral notes. Rich fruit flavors and minerality. Soft spice in the finish.Ê Very Good Plus Ê 26.99/ bottleÊ 24.29/mixed caseÊ 22.94/case 2007 Pacher Hof Sylvaner Alte Reben:Ê Pale straw, green highlight. Floral, spice and fresh fruit aromas. streamlind fruit, floral and spice flavors. Complex, long finish.Ê Very Good Plus to ExcellentÊ Ê$37.99/bottleÊ 34.19/mixed caseÊ 32.29/case 2007 Bastianich Malvasia Istriana:Ê Straw with gold nuance. Lots of fruit in the aromas, pear, peach, apricot and white currants. On the palate a nutty texture with precise fruit and spice flavors. Long textured dry finish:Ê Very Good Plus Ê 41.99/bottleÊ 38.69/mixed caseÊ 35.69/case 2007 Tiefenbrunner Muller Thurgau Feldmarschal:Ê Light yellow with pale green highlights. Aromas of apricot laced with sage and jasmine. Supple palate, tangy, complex, long and pure.Ê Very Good Plus to Excellent Ê 37.99/bottleÊ 34.19/mixede caseÊ 32.29/case 2006 Angerer Gruner Veltliner Eichenstaude: Ê Straw yellow, green rim.Ê Bright fruit and white pepper aromas. Textured, rich flavors with mineral edge and spice. Rich finish.Ê Very Good Plus Ê 29.99/bottleÊ 26.99/mixed caseÊ 25.49/case 2001 Domaine Wachau Riesling Smaragd Singeriedel:Ê Yellow with gold highlights. Complex fruit spice and mineral aromas. precisely delineated, elegant fruit and mineral flavors. Crisp, texture, long finish.Ê Very Good Plus to Excellent Ê 32.00/bottleÊ 28.80/mixed caseÊ 27.20/case Alpine Whites Tasting Case: Two bottles each of the above wines for a special price of $352 Bonus Wine 2007 Manincor Moscato Giallo:Ê Bright straw yellow. Complex aromas, grapefruit, nutmeg, and cedar. Crisp and fruity palate with good length.Ê Very Good Plus Ê 29.99/bottleÊ 26.99/mixed caseÊ 25.49/case |
